The men’s fashion industry is back on display in Florence, from today to Friday 17, at Pitti Uomo, the most important trade fair in the world in the sector, committed to reinventing itself after Covid and to which Il Sole 24 Ore dedicates the Special Men’s Fashion of 28 pages attached to the newspaper today. “It’s not a restart, it’s a new march”, repeat the organizers of Pitti Immagine who present the spring-summer 2023 collections of 682 brands, 41% foreign, with a mix of established and research brands, large and small, ranging from clothing to accessories to (a lot) lifestyle.
The wind has changed from six months ago. The pandemic is less scary and, even if the war in Ukraine and the surge in energy, logistics and raw materials costs spread concern, companies are more willing to plan, invest, get involved. Events and presentations are also multiplying in the center of Florence, which is returning to fill with tourists after two very hard years, with the shop windows celebrating Pitti Uomo and with via Tornabuoni, the luxury shopping street, decorated with plants for evoke an Italian garden. «In these days the occupancy of the hotels is at 90% – explains Stefano Rosselli, president of the hoteliers of Confindustria Firenze – and Pitti Uomo has made its contribution to this result. We are not yet at the pre-pandemic presences, but we have seen a return of companies and buyers. Pitti remains an important opportunity for work and international visibility ». The fair is divided into five sections that tell the declinations of men’s fashion, from the elegance that made Made in Italy great in the world (Fantastic Classic) to those who look beyond the formal (Futuro Maschile); from urban styles that focus on freedom and comfort (Dynamic attitude) to international brands that mix tradition and innovation (Superstyling), up to the special area on sustainability. The expected operators are between 10 and 15 thousand: there will be a lack of Chinese and Russians, hopefully in the Americans, in the Middle East and in Southeast Asia, as well as of course in Europe, which continues to be strategic for the Italian men’s fashion industry (9.4 billions in turnover in 2021 for 70.6% of exports, with a trade balance of 2.6 billion).
In the first three months of the year (data processed by Confindustria Moda for Pitti Immagine) the main outlet countries were France, Germany and Switzerland, followed by the United States (+ 58%), Spain, China (-1.9%) and the United Kingdom. In the quarter, exports grew by 6.3% while imports jumped by 22.6%. On the horizon, Confindustria Moda predicts a “possible slowdown in demand due to a climate of greater uncertainty”: recovering the record turnover of 2019, above 10.1 billion euros, is no longer a certainty for the sector.