The United States and Central Europe are confirmed as the key markets for made in Italy menswear. This is the image that reflects the first day of Pitti Immagine Uomo, which returned to the usual international crowds after the two-year deadlock. A picture confirmed by the data: in the first quarter of 2022, according to Istat, the export of men’s fashion rose by 6.3% over 2021, for a total of over 1.7 billion. The first market in the January-March period is France (+ 7.7%), but it is the US that has registered the record increase: +57.9 per cent.
“The situation already takes into account the war in Ukraine and the lockdowns in China – explains Raffaello Napoleone, managing director of Pitti Immagine – and confirms that this will not be just a year of recovery but of acceleration for men’s fashion”. At the fair, in addition to the European and American presences, Napoleon underlines “those of the main Japanese, Korean and Russian department stores”. The latter are looking for brands that can be purchased under 300 euros, to avoid penalties. At the fair, the first American presences are flanked above all by those from Central Europe: “In half a day we registered a number of brands on the stand equal to that of the entire January 2022 edition and the share of foreigners is significant, especially from Belgium , Poland and Germany – explains Antonio Ricciardi, commercial director of Co.ca.ma, the company headed by Liu Jo Uomo who closed 2021 with a turnover of 45 million -. We owe all the growth to exports, which we plan to bring from 25% to 40% of revenues in three seasons ».
Raffaello Severini, commercial director of Manuel Ritz (Paoloni Group) also confirms the international presence: «We have seen Americans, Germans, many buyers from Central Europe. The Japanese and the Chinese are missing ». These absences reflect a scenario of decline in Japan (-13.6% in the three months) and stagnation in China (-1.9%), the effect of the lockdowns wanted by the Beijing government: “Young Chinese have emerged disheartened by this second wave of the pandemic – explains Yuan Zou, head of Luxury and Fashion Europe of the Chinese agency Hylink, present at Pitti – are struggling to find work and the dynamics of revenge shopping we have seen in 2020 will not be repeated. Italian companies, even small ones, have great potential in China but will have to do even more to win over consumers “.