Trussardi has dedicated to Milan – which will host the fashion week until September 26 – a collection of fragrances, Le vie di Milano: an olfactory map composed of eight unisex perfumes that tell the style, emotion and habits of the Milanese city with evocative names such as Limitless Shopping Via della Spiga, Walk in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milanese Aperitif Porta Nuova and Alba on the Navigli. The one between fashion and the world of perfumes is a strong and lasting bond that starts from afar. «Make me a fragrance that smells of love» said Christian Dior when Miss Dior was born in 1947. In fact, there are many fashion companies that focus on this product so far from models, fabrics and fashion shows and yet so fundamental to affirm the brand, communicate its values, complete its image and bring new customers. After all, as Coco Chanel said, “perfume is the basic, unforgettable, unseen fashion accessory, the one that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure”. EN ° 5 has become an iconic essence for the French maison.
A winning horse to bet on, then. A business, that of fragrances, which does not seem to be experiencing a crisis: according to Cosmetica Italia, the Italian market of alcoholic perfumery in 2021 touched 1.1 billion euros, equal to 12.5% of total beauty consumption, reaching the levels of 2019. Exports also did well, reaching 1.2 billion last year, growing by 22.9% and almost returning to pre-crisis levels.
From Armani to Gucci to Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino, just to name a few, the proposals arriving on the market are numerous – and also extend to make-up – as well as the licensing agreements signed with cosmetic companies, by L ‘Oréal to Coty (which with Gucci launches Flora Gorgeous Jasmine eau de parfum after Flora Gorgeous Gardenia combined with a make-up line) to the Italians EuroItalia (Versace, Missoni, Moschino and DSquared2) and Mavive (Furla, Ermanno Scervino).
Master perfumers Nadège Le Garlantezec, Shyamala Maisondieu and Antoine Maisondieu have collaborated with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to reconcile timelessness and avant-garde, nature and innovation. The result? Paradoxe, a perfume that “embodies the very essence of Prada”, let us know by the company that has signed a license agreement with L’Oréal for beauty with effect from 1 January 2021, after having collaborated with Puig. An agreement that Patrizio Bertelli, CEO of Prada had commented as follows: «L’Oréal is an international leader in the world of beauty. His prestige and experience make him the ideal partner to develop Prada’s potential in the best possible way through new projects, leveraging on the already consolidated identity of the brand in the fragrance sector, to communicate with a wider clientele all over the world “.
The Prada license has enriched the L’Oréal Luxe brand portfolio (which includes, among others, Giorgio Armani who has recently launched Code Le Parfum, 100% refillable and two make-up novelties) after the entry of Valentino, who entered the orbit of the French cosmetics giant in January 2019. “We are confident that Valentino has great potential in the category and that with L’Oréal’s skills in the sector we will be able to realize that potential” commented Stefano Sassi, CEO of Valentino at the time the license was signed. Since then, the maison has presented Born in Roma fragrances and a make-up line. The latest initiatives include the new “Born in Rosso” advertising campaign that pays homage to Valentino Red, the maison’s iconic color, and the opening of a fragrance and make-up store at La Rinascente in via Del Tritone in Rome.