Home » Franck Sorbier-the prince of haute couture from common people-Culture and Art

Franck Sorbier-the prince of haute couture from common people-Culture and Art

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Near the Louvre in Paris, on a side street not far from the mansion of your cow, the former residence of the Minister of Finance of Louis XIV Mazarin, Franck Sorbier used a sewing machine to continuously transform the mechanism of a piece of silk. Da da da da da, da da da da da, non-stop. Originally very thin silk yarn and very smooth satin, in his hands, they were fiddled with the strong mechanical texture in Pierre Soulage’s paintings, or transformed into a sculptural sense like Japanese origami. He and his wife Isabelle Tartière Sorbier used this reborn fabric, embellished by painting, lace, embroidery and other hand-decorated techniques, and put all kinds of clothing techniques into seasonal themes. Sometimes it’s a ballet theme, and sometimes it’s a sexy villain with a knife face and tofu heart. The seasonal fashion is driven by the theme they promote, just like a song or a verse, which has a sense of music and lyricism, revealing the love of life at any time.

Franck Sorbier 与 Isabelle Tartière Sorbier © LIN Zuqiang

The situation is a bit complicated this season. Because of the outbreak of the epidemic, the city is closed and closed everywhere. Franck Sorbier’s advanced customization can’t show and publish on the stage like in the past, so he had to make a video. During the epidemic, Sorbier’s tone is called Muse en scène on the stage. He created a pun in French with homophonic sound. At first glance, it seems to be a goddess on the stage, but it also means that it is carefully arranged for you. .

This French goddess is Catherine Wilkening, who used to be a film and television actor, and is now a sculptor. Sorbier let his haute couture suits this season, one set of set, revolved around the life of a beautiful and deep middle-aged sculptor. The sculptor sat in front of the mirrors used by the wizards for a while, wearing a creamy white jacquard silk dress, Franck Sorbier used Valenciennes lace and embroidery to create a honeycomb mechanism and rosettes: The goddess will have dinner with the cat for a while. It’s the kind of dovetail top in men’s clothing in the 19th century. The masculinity is embellished with the hypocrisy that women like to wear in underwear lace; in the 1950s, photographer Richard Avedon took a blockbuster of women and leopards. Today, Franck Sorbier lets The cat and its mistress, who can almost spray emotions, borrow a masculine tone to be a woman of all kinds of styles.

This is the creation of Franck Sorbier. Sorbier, a design genius who was cared for and promoted by former Parisian fashion union chairman Jacques Mouclier, is no longer the youthful appearance of the past, but looks like Proust’s older brother who is a doctor, deep and reserved. Together with his wife, who is busy in and out and busy, I have to use costumes to compose poems every season, and I am also busy looking for materials for writing a poem. The more important thing is to find money to maintain the business.

Their haute couture clothing is very expensive, a piece of clothing, from more than 20,000 euros to 50,000 to 60,000 euros, that is very common. They make clothes for the rich, but they are not rich, nor do they belong to the rich who own haute couture brands and hire haute couture designers. They belong to themselves.

Haute couture fashion, today this kind of wealth distribution imbalance reminds people from time to time of the era of dire civilian life before the French Revolution, its situation is a bit complicated.

In the eyes of ordinary people, these expensive clothes craftsmanship are rare, time-consuming and labor-intensive, and the beauty is exaggerated.

In fact, in the 19th century, haute couture was basically tailor-made women’s clothing. Because the tailor will design the style of the next season in advance, and at the same time make the fabrics and decoration craft more sophisticated, ladies with well-off families will make customizations to the tailor. Later, because the garment industry was able to mass-produce through factory assembly lines after the technological revolution, the garment industry referred to custom-made garments with more exquisite materials and craftsmanship as advanced customization. Then, keep the style of this customized clothing, but simplify the embellishment and decoration process, and choose cheaper fabrics for standardized mass production of clothing, which is ready-to-wear. This is to satisfy the general public who is not so particular about clothing and does not want to spend sky-high budgets on dressing up. For the apparel industry, advanced customization is a small business, while ready-to-wear is a big business.

Later, as the workmanship of standardized and mass-produced garments became more and more complicated, and the fabrics became more and more advanced, the high-end custom fashions became more and more extravagant and exquisite. Sometimes, it is just an evening dress that is only worn once, and it takes 5 to 6 embroiderers for several months to complete it. In addition to the design, pattern making, cutting, sewing, lace, tassels, fabric weaving and other processes spent manpower and material resources, the cost of high-level customization and non-cannibalistic fireworks has also attracted financial magic in the increasingly intensified social conflicts in the contemporary era. And the hatred of the large population of victims caused by the monopoly of wealth.

What is wealth monopoly? Use the financial magic of short-selling in the non-real economy to absorb money, use artistic creativity as a guise to create an exclusive empire that combines capital and industry to absorb money, and use various methods to avoid taxation to accelerate the concentration of wealth on oneself. Generation of power expansion, through this wealth expansion to dominate the fate of the injured social groups, this is wealth monopoly.

When the merging giants in the clothing industry make centralized and unified deployment of funds, raw materials, processes, and designs, and use the added value created by capitalism with the characteristics of monopolistic gold absorption in the new era to mark a cotton printed T-shirt for ready-to-wear garments At a price of 800 euros, which is equivalent to two-thirds of the lowest monthly income in France, people have a strong resistance to their haute couture fashions. Because at this time, people have found the symbol of wealth monopoly through the exquisiteness of haute couture, questioning the production and consumption of extreme luxury goods, and expressing their anger at the imbalance of contemporary wealth distribution. This is somewhat similar to Queen Marie Antoinette, who was cursed by the French who could not eat bread in the 18th century, who was constantly overdrafting luxury goods.

At this time, advanced customization and advanced customization were completely different when they first appeared.

The original intention of haute couture is to provide better-quality and more personalized clothing for people from well-off families in a rich and diverse society, in other words, people with relatively high socioeconomic status. But when the gap between the rich and the poor under the monopoly of wealth is becoming more and more dichotomy, the social class is not so rich and diverse. The whole trend is that if you are not a super rich, then you are quietly being separated by the super rich. This tax avoidance and financial game is compressed into the poor. There are fewer and fewer wealthy families that can consume haute couture as they did before. They are either seriously aging, too old to show up to participate in social activities, or severely weakened. From a wealthy family to a low-level middle-class family, they simply cannot afford to consume the older generation. Enjoy life.

The premiumization of ready-made garments has also brought tremendous pressure to advanced customization. An exquisitely crafted Yoji Yamamoto high-end garment can be marked at a price of 8,000 euros, which is more than 6 times the minimum monthly income in France. Even Yoji Yamamoto himself is lamenting that he doesn’t know who can afford his clothes. If the advanced customization of the equivalent tailored clothes is lower than the Yoji Yamamoto’s 8,000 euros in terms of craftsmanship and price, does the peak sense of advanced customization need to be rewritten?

In the conversation with Franck Sorbier and his wife Isabelle Tartière, I obviously felt that they were most concerned about whether the haute couture clothing could hold the materials, craftsmanship, production conditions, high-level design, and be able to achieve the best quality. The veteran haute couture acquired by the boutique group is as advanced as the old one. The operation of self-employed advanced customization does not have the economic support and centralized and unified deployment of process and material resources like the old advanced customization acquired by large groups. They are always struggling to find funds and fight for quality. Now the quality is assembled, because Franck Sorbier was named by the French Ministry of Culture as the only craftsman in the French haute couture industry, but they have to keep collecting funds.

I told them that the good family is a part of the people and the main target of services when advanced customization appeared in modern history. This is the original intention. In today’s increasingly unbalanced distribution of wealth, the number of wealthy families has indeed been squeezed a lot, but in terms of absolute numbers, it is still more than the number of super rich.

Why not further develop advanced customization services for the well-being of families? The advanced customization that serves the well-deserved family is the advanced customization of the people.

Franck Sorbier and his wife said that the people’s haute couture may become vulgar haute couture in some people’s ears. I said that Princess Diana was made the princess of the people by the British because she won the hearts of the people. The advanced customization created for the wealthy families whose population is still relatively wide is the original concept of advanced customization and will definitely be loved by the people. Since Franck Sorbier is the only craftsman in the haute couture industry, he can completely lay down his burdens and benefit the better life of the broader family. He can be the prince who builds the advanced customization of the people. Hearing this, Franck Sorbier and his wife said that they would be very happy to be the princes who build people’s haute couture.

This season, their goddess is not a wealthy, but a female sculptor Catherine Wilkening who dare not care about haute couture. Franck Sorbier and his wife gave the female sculptor a dress that made her excited, and allowed her to buy the haute couture works that were left in the past few seasons at an affordable price. The female sculptor is currently working on a series of sculptures of the Virgin and the man’s phallus. She is living in a wild life in her reminiscences of surrealism. Her work reminds me of Louise Bourgeois, an artist in his 90s who holds a huge phallic sculpture. I told Franck Sorbier and his wife, I also hope that you can continue to do it, just like Louise Bourgeois, and work endlessly until they are nearly a hundred years old.

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Interview with Franck Sorbier and Isabelle Tartière (French)

Interview with Franck Sorbier and Isabelle Tartière Sorbier 2021 OK

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