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From Emporio Armani to Fendi, the simplicity of the post Covid style

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From Emporio Armani to Fendi, the simplicity of the post Covid style

CNeither the two years of confinement that have just passed and the heat that oblige us to unveil without any respect for ancient protocols, the hymn to freedom that pervades men’s fashion seems an inevitable consequence. The Milan fashion shows opened yesterday in the sign of the most absolute indifference to any formality, but also without street-level youthfulness. New ways are being sought to free the male: more composed, perhaps; certainly less shouted and ramshackle. Since fashion is fashion, but it is objects that suggest manners, the spirit of the moment is captured by the shirt: a neglected garment in the golden moment of sweatshirts and t-shirts, once again absolutely topical. There are all kinds of shirts, from denim jackets to urban safari jackets, from Fendi , where even tailored jackets and airy dusters are as impalpable as blouses. The collection is fresh and precise with a strong accent on denim and a certain normality, if only at Fendi nothing is ever as it seems and surprises are carefully hidden for the personal delight of the wearer: openings on the shoulders, high kimono slits on the hips . In between, a flood of Bermuda shorts and then fringed moccasins and square handbags, or capable buckets. Silvia Venturini Fendi has the marked ability to capture the air of time and synthesize it in a light as well as incisive, coherent but iridescent, always effective sign. “There is a desire for great simplicity – she says – and also for a fashion that increasingly enhances the staff”. The goal is soon reached, with ineffable accuracy.

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The focus on individuality that fragments and multiplies the proposals is perhaps the most evident aspect of current fashion. Giorgio Armaniabout the collection Emporiouses the metaphor of the basket, in which to fish freely following a very summery freedom and lightheartedness.

The image is effective, but since it is Armani, nothing is left to chance. Lightweight and full of details that reveal the body – Armani defines them as “brave” – ​​not to mention the very, very short shorts that reveal it, the proposal reaffirms the validity of the Armanian idiom, updating it in a tense, decisive expression, without forcing. The impalpable tailoring is striking, the holiday spirit but never sloppy. It takes a veteran of immortal aplomb to achieve this balance, and to move between different proposals without derailing. Emporio thus gains new relevance.

You are future reads the writing at the entrance to the show MSGM, housed in the new, futuristic Fastweb headquarters, all sharp volumes and ponds with lots of ducks. A message of optimism and openness, captured in the light mixing of signs, with rugby stripes and gaucho hats, banana prints and tank tops, and then the totally informal tailoring that marks a welcome maturation, if not towards adulthood , certainly in the direction of a new awareness.

Even the man of Dsquared2 continues to mature: the muscular hedonism of the past has given way to a happy search for freedom, which this season takes on a reggae tone, in a successful blend of Jamaica and motocross. It is dystopian and edgy, with some obvious forcing, the world of Alyx: inexorable cuts, pointy shoes, cool bronchi. In some shores, lightness is not contemplated, but the freedom of the moment also means openness to everything.

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