The short Milan fashion week closed on Monday with the show in the presence of Giorgio Armani. An intimate fashion show, in the gardens of via Borgonuovo 21, as it used to be when fashion was part of the industrial and cultural fabric of the country but was still far from becoming, as it is today, a form of global entertainment. Just thinking about those pioneering moments, but avoiding the cloying rhetoric of the it was better when it was worse, Armani entitles the event “Back to the origins”. Naturally it refers to a fact of personal history: in the underground theater at the same address, in fact, all the fashion shows of the brand took place from 1984 to 2000; the mythical and perhaps even mythological shows that cemented the Armani aesthetic in the collective imagination. The new collection reiterates the original spirit, taking root in this moment, because Armani is anything but nostalgic.
The composure of the classic Armani
Everything is soft and deconstructed, as expected, but the shapes are renewed in the new dresses that consist of pinstripe blouses, cut like the denim jacket, worn with trousers of the same fabric, or shirts with a list collar coordinated with the trousers of the same fabric. Armani is clear: classic is not a dirty word, but classic dressing does not mean limiting oneself to a jacket and tie. Of the classic, with supreme spirit of synthesis, Armani takes the juice, the essence: a certain appropriateness, which is then the measure of not exceeding, the composure of not slouching. And her man, a pensive and aware adult in a scenario dominated by a depressing childishness, certainly does not hurry, not even when he wears Bermuda shorts or tries bright green and cyclamen pink.
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Armani, a symbolic endorsement to Leo dell’Orco
In great shape despite a recent shoulder accident, Armani thunders, relentless but smiling: «The more I go on, the more I can only do myself. And I don’t do fashion, I will never do it. I make style, because I am convinced that man must have a certain allure ». Alongside the stylist, at the end of the show, Leo Dell’Orco, historical right-hand man: a symbolic endorsement that is also an assurance of continuity within the company, given that the succession theme continues to thrill.
Diesel, Prada and Etro between catwalks and videos
It is a return to the origins of another nature that of Diesel: to the pop and transgressive roots, but also to the denim soul of the brand. Its proponent is the new creative director, the capable Glenn Marten, one of the most original author of his generation and creator of the success of Y / Project. Called to restore polish and appeal, Martens works from the ground up, following an architectural and playful approach, focusing on distortions. He combines cowboy boots with jeans, makes coats and overcoats with the recycled paper of the envelopes, deep sequins on the bleached jeans. The result is vital and kaleidoscopic, with just the right amount of kitsch to rock. It is a promising start, the start, celebrated with a dream video, of a creative marriage born under the best auspices.
In the video of Prada, beach, rocks and crystalline waters – Sardinian views, true and wild, with donation included in favor of the Medsea Foundation – are the relief of a wide horizon that opens at the end of a red tunnel, claustrophobic and tortuous path to martial step and rhythm of techno by young models in rolled-up shorts, oversized jackets and multifunctional hats.