Home » Haute horlogerie, slalom among the brands that made the digital fair shine

Haute horlogerie, slalom among the brands that made the digital fair shine

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Watches and Wonders in Geneva (April 7-13), the fair dedicated to fine watchmaking, this year still digital, for a week attracted the attention of professionals and enthusiasts of the world of hands. The baton passes to the second edition of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, here in attendance (albeit limited), on the bill until April 18 starring 19 brands out of the total 38 seen in the days of the Geneva event.

Monday Patek Philippe completed the presentation of the news. While four new versions of Nautilus were unveiled at the start of the fair (including the Ref. 5711 / 1A-014 with olive green dial), the more technical, always eagerly awaited proposals finally arrived. Among these, the center of the scene was the Ref.5236P-001 with a perpetual calendar which on a blue lacquered brass dial protected by a platinum case shows, in a single large window at 12 o’clock, the linear indications of date, day of the week and month: a patented mechanical solution never seen before on a wristwatch.

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The main focus of Rolex remained on the long tradition in the history of exploration. The house of the Crown has introduced new Explorer re-proposed in the original size of 36 mm in diameter (the same at the time of the launch in 1953), and Explorer II which presents technical and aesthetic evolutions. Many launches also in the maison Cartier with particular attention to Tank Must, of which, moreover, versions have been introduced with a photovoltaic dial, thanks to which the Solarbeat movement made in two years of work is charged, and Altstrap straps in materials with 40% of plant origin.

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Still on the subject of great classics, Jaeger Lecoultre entered the heart of the celebrations for the 90th anniversary of Reverso, its iconic product, of which new versions were presented. Among these, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Caliber 185 is the most complicated ever made in this family (there are 11 complications spread over four surfaces).

There are also many great complications for Vacheron Constantin which presented two versions of the ultra-flat Overseas with a perpetual calendar (one skeletonized) and one with a tourbillon and an ultra-flat Traditionelle split-seconds chronograph, but whose main launch was the Historiques American 1921, a reinterpretation of a cult launched at the time for the American market, with its distinctive diagonal reading of the time and the off-center crown at 2 o’clock on the case.

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