Midsummer is approaching, and as the 2023 Spring/Summer Paris Men’s Fashion Week comes to an end, this half-month fashion carnival that spans London, Florence, Milan, and Paris has officially come to an end. Coinciding with the European continent getting out of the haze of the epidemic, many brands chose to return to the offline catwalk. Elements such as pink, oversized silhouettes, gender ambiguity, a full set of denim, and Western denim, which were popular in previous seasons, are still regulars on the show floor. Martine Rose, Jacquemus and other brands have also exposed the latest joint names with sports manufacturers.
However, as the fashion week regained its former vitality, there were also many new bright spots on the show. For example, Dior Men refers to a number of outdoor shoes created by classic lasts such as rain boots, hiking shoes, and outdoor running shoes; after cowboy boots, another western element, “tassel”, has become a new favorite of designers; many brands’ show styles coincide in the same place. Choosing to expose the underwear seems to imply that the hip-hop method of “Sagging” is about to return. This time, HYPEBEAST will take stock of the fashion elements that appear most frequently on the 2023 spring and summer show, and capture the fashion trends worthy of reference from the details.
Embossed Leather
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Louis Vuitton has always been one of the most talked about brands at Paris Fashion Week, and this season may be the last menswear collection to continue Virgil Abloh’s design language, so the show has become a talking point before it begins. In addition to Kendrick Lamar, who sang the entire music in the audience, and the giant speaker installation on the model’s back, there were also a variety of jackets in carved leather.
One of them is a plaster white leather jacket with sculptural patterns that has attracted speculation. It was inspired by the cover of the classic album “Cruel Summer” of Kanye West’s label GOOD Music, which is a tribute to the former DONDA creative director. It is not the first time that LV, who is from leather goods, has applied this process to his own clothing, but another DONDA “classmate” Matthew Williams this season also tacitly adopted the carved leather jacket as the main style of Givenchy, which is unavoidable. Will it become a new trend in 2023.
Cowboy Fringe Denim Fringe
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Western cowboy style has been blown into the menswear runway as early as the last few seasons, and brands such as Off-White™, GmbH, Y/Project are the first to incorporate cowboy clothing elements such as cowboy boots and piping into their designs. Today, the tassel element on denim leather jackets has also become the new favorite of this season, and elegant denim tassel can be seen on the shows of CELINE, Thom Browne, AMI, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, FACETASM and other brands. And this season, Casablanca, which happens to be themed with western cowboys, implements this element in most of its styles.
Organza Organza
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Organza Organza, a sheer sheer veil, commonly seen in wedding dresses or summer women’s gauze dresses. As the gender in fashion gradually blurred, its soft and light texture has also begun to be favored by menswear designers. Kim Jones continues to use the fabric for a gentle, refreshingly masculine look in this season’s Dior Men, while Rick Owens’ organza jackets and robes convey a different gothic vibe.
Sagging exposed panties
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The most unforgettable thing about Rhude this season was its runway look with its panties exposed. And this kind of outer pants is lower than the waist, revealing the underwear mode, I believe you have seen it on American hip-hop singers. The wearing method is called “Sagging”, which originated in American prisons. In order to prevent prisoners from committing suicide, prisoners are not allowed to use belts, so that the pants that are too loose hang below the pubic bone. By the 1990s, it was respected by hip-hop culture and became a symbol of Gangsta temperament.
Although Rhude uses Sagging extensively, it is suspected of promoting the new underwear product line, but it is no coincidence that Givenchy and Thom Browne also surprisingly implement Sagging in the runway look. In addition, Sagging can also be seen on the runway of brands such as VTMNTS and rookie Mr. Saturday.
Damaged Knit
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The resurgence of knitted items has been obvious in the past few seasons, especially off-season items such as knitted vests, which have become regulars on the spring and summer shows. This season, JW Anderson, Kiko Kostadinov, Givenchy and other brands have knitted pieces of varying degrees of destruction on the runway. Among them, JW Anderson hollowed out different parts to reveal the barcode at the bottom, which is quite interesting; Kiko Kostadinov exposed the knitted details of the neck and wrist that destroyed the wire drawing, which added a lot to the shape. Destruction of sweaters is not a new trend. From Number (N)ine and UNDERCOVER more than ten years ago to YEEZY and Balenciaga in recent years, you can see this style. Whether this element will re-emerge with a new design is worth looking forward to. .
Metal texture
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As one of the most commonly used visual textures on the occasion of the millennium, metallic colors are quite present on the show this season. Kiko Kostadinov splices sequins on the clothes, and the metallic color is also reflected in the makeup; Craig Green splices the down pieces wrapped in the metallic color, and has a full-body shape with a tin foil texture; VTMNTS silver coats, leather pants , shoes and other styles are impressive; Walter Van Beirendonck, the “fashion old urchin” who has just resigned from his post at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp, also incorporates metallic colors into this season’s clothing series.
Jorts Denim Shorts
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Jorts, that is, denim shorts, is a compound word of “Jeans + Shorts”. Givenchy, JW Anderson and others have seen what is widely considered a minefield of over-the-knee denim shorts that were popular in hip-hop culture around 2000. And Prada, WOOYOUNGMI, KENZO, Fendi and other brands also presented denim shorts of different lengths and washed. This impression of the old style that was popular in the last century seems to be making a comeback.
Green Plants
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The European continent has stepped out of the haze of the epidemic, and the natural elements that symbolize the vitality of life have appeared at this node of waste in a timely manner. On the show this season, the appearance rate of green plant elements is extremely high. The most obvious one is Loewe, who directly covers the green plants on coats, trousers, and sneakers. And Homme Plisse Issey Miyake added green plant prints to the signature pleated fabric; Louis Vuitton covered the whole body with oil paintings painted with flowers and plants; FACETASM designed green plants as camouflage patterns with functional styles; Marine Serre added plants Wrap around the model as the finishing touch.
In this season’s fashion week, it can be found that many clothing styles that were popular in the early 2000s are making a comeback. Although high-end street and gender vagueness are still the main keynotes of men’s clothing design, they are now in an unprecedented era of individualism, which is very Cult aesthetic. The styles of Archive, Gorpcore, etc. are also popular. Go back to 1920, a hundred years ago, when the European continent was also suffering from a plague. But in the wake of the infamous Spanish flu, menswear fashion, which was once rigid and boring, began to take on a rapidly diverging evolution. After the fashion industry gets rid of the impact of the epidemic, what kind of development trend will it show in the 2020s?