The difference between men’s and women’s perfumes, especially in niche perfumery, has been over for years. Today the choice of a perfume is no longer a question of gender, but above all of smell, after all in a society characterized by the fluidity of the sexes, dynamic, where one goes well beyond the labels, it could only be so. The perfumes created mainly for a male audience are also liked by women, the new summer essences then focus a lot on citrus fruits, notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange, cedar, lime, all ingredients that immediately give a breath of freshness, lightness and tone. , perfect for counteracting the hottest days. Another message that emerges from the maître parfumeur is the creation of fragrances with few ingredients.
“The overly elaborate and refined olfactory pyramids have had their day, you have to understand what is in a perfume, the ingredients must be recognizable – says Luca Maffei, a young Italian nose who has just presented Figue + Neroli for Womo Ultimate Fragrances – . The mantra is simplicity, clarity, softness. The citrus or citrus notes have an electrifying freshness and go well with wild berries, fragrant berries and fruit trees. Great return also of white flowers such as lily, jasmine and gardenia with green and creamy facets that evoke purity and elegance. Finally, the rediscovery of eau de cologne, perfect this season for its low alcohol content and its energizing power ».
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The power of citrus fruits
Lively, dynamic notes that give an immediate sensation of freshness. They are the citrus notes that range from bitter orange to bergamot, from cedar to exotic yuzu, lime and kumquat, the Chinese mandarin. The great Jean Claude Ellena also chose them for his latest creation Journey to Italy for Olfactory Laboratory, three Parfum Cologne with Mandarin, Lemon and Bergamot.
«The first fragrance I created was the mandarin one, among all the citrus fruits it is the most joyful – says Ellena, who has just published the book“ Atlante di Botanica Profumata ”(Ed. L’Ippocampo) -. When I want to give my perfumes a cheerful and bright character, I use the essence of mandarin. The advantage with colonies is that they are built for layering, which means that they are created to be stacked. The Mandarin Cologne Parfum can be worn alone, but it also adapts to be worn with other perfumes, according to one’s taste ».
Versatile and luminous essences are Figue + Neroli, a vibrant fragrance with notes of bergamot combined with bitter orange peel on a heart of fig leaf and neroli, or Greenley by Parfums de Marly Paris, where Sicilian bergamot and mandarin are combined with violet, cedar wood and oak moss. Not only citrus, but also the freshness of the sea for Montblanc Explorer Ultra Blue, notes of bergamot and lemon that lead to a pulsating marine accord on a trail of patchouli.