Wolf wolf! But that of the Etro fashion show is not a false alarm as in Aesop’s fable. It is no coincidence that the show in attendance in the new Bocconi headquarters, a place of knowledge, ascends towards the mountain between images of the ferocious canid and jaquard snowflakes. The motifs are repositioned even in the inlays at the waist of the jacket. As well as, in a new accessory: the knitted band to be tightened at the waist on each garment like a carrier. A kind of sweet life for the loins. If the former protects the throat, Kean’s invention is a holy hand for the back. “We are here now and now”, says in the soundtrack, the voiceover of the designer in a translation of the Latin Here and now, in which the creator has always believed. Thus, down jackets, like certain trousers, are made of a futuristic mirror-like fiber. After all, he was the first in the 90s to dare to be upholstered in perspex transparent with internal visible feathers. On the colorful catwalk the models cross at random: “as they want – Etro comments – everyone in life must be free to choose their own path”.
The wolf on the bear
True character of the collection, the wolf who also symbolizes loyalty and attachment to the family. After all, the Capitoline she-wolf raised Romulus and Remus, founders of Rome. The canid that the Maison protects in collaboration with the WWF, stands out in polychrome on the sweaters or in the teddy-effect pea coat. Occasionally his howls break into the music. But they aren’t scary like in horror movies. If anything, they refer to nature less “domesticated” by civilization (?). In fact, the voice of Kean Etro marks, “man returns to himself”. But in a different way. The great use of orange / ocher with which the stylist also painted his car is a testament. While, the garments are broken down and reassembled in deliberate asymmetries and inaccuracies, of which the most usual is the shirt outside the pullover with the snowflakes from which they physically descend, woolen threads. Everything is not very “ethical”. 4 decadent dressing gowns survive from the philological tradition of the brand, in smooth silk velvet with paisley motifs. But wear with sneakers. “Because, I looked at the new generations a lot, – says the stylist – taking a cue from my children”.
A book in your pocket
In the end, Kean Etro comes out with a camouflage jacket decorated with the applications of the Kilim that Franco Battiato bought from the antique dealer Roberta Etro (mother of the creator). In the pocket of the outerwear worn by the designer, the book 101 story Zen by Nyogen Senzakied. (ed. Adelphi). The invitations themselves were all different little volumes from the bourgeois publishing house. Message: “our culture must be a library with many small and manageable but thick publications”.