“This is the best time to bring out elegance, understood as an attitude and way of offering oneself, not as a formality” says Walter Chiapponi, creative director of Tod’s, summarizing the spirit of the new collection but also capturing the atmosphere that pervades this short Milan fashion week dedicated to men’s fashion, which began on Friday and will end on Monday with a double show in the presence of Giorgio Armani. Abandoned the lazy softness of confined clothing, little inclined to the party explosions and escapist compensations that elsewhere announce revenge dressing all folly and sequins, the designers some Italian brands face the moment as an opportunity to restart, concrete rather than emphatic, focusing on clothes that make you want to wear, and buy. Suddenly Milan seems to have returned to the dawn of men’s prêt-à-porter, when neutral colors and fluid deconstructions abounded. It was the early eighties and we were emerging from the darkness of another crisis, but the spendthrift and ostentatious ebb was still to come. At that time, Milan was the driving force behind the change in generalist aesthetics; now, aspire to repeat.
Tod’s: nylon trench coats and biker jackets
The acronym of this timeless Italianness is precisely in the sensual and effortless elegance, that is a light-hearted appropriateness even at the peak of informality. Chiappi condensation in a lightweight wardrobe that moves from nylon trench coats to biker jackets by canvas with rubber pads at the elbows, from 1950s blousons to suede windbreakers, focusing on accessories such as desert boots and multi-material gymnastic shoes. Few, quick movements, no emphasis, and the renewal of the classics takes shape convincingly. After all, it is the point of view that changes things.
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Fendi: jackets cut at the navel, shorts and parkas
Silvia Venturini Fendi, who colors the man’s wardrobe, is rightly convinced of this Fendi of the infinite nuances of a Roman sunset while observing the classics from unexpected perspectives, cutting jackets above the navel or multiplying the pockets on shorts and parkas. The idea of the aerial view completely permeates this particularly light test: the prints of Rome seen from above expand on shorts and shirts, while the presentation video, signed by Nico Vascellari, is a riot of movements and grazing drone flights. around the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, at EUR, where the brand is located. Rome, the cornerstone of the Fendi world, is evoked with pictorial lightness, far from the heavy quotation, and the result has a boyish and fresh spirit.
Sunnei: the white canvas to customize
Gives Sunnei, central is the idea of play. A useful game, which is called canvas and which allows selected retailers to fully customize a series of white canvas garments, a distillation of the playful aesthetic of this young but already established brand, whose raison d’etre is an intelligent use of communication, both cynical and joyful.