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Paris fashion, at Givenchy sportswear is intertwined with couture

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Paris fashion, at Givenchy sportswear is intertwined with couture

Delicate pearl embroidery on oversized jeans. The whole soul of Givenchy by Matthew M. Williams, creative director since June 2020, is there. Californian, the designer pushes his tendency to reconcile sportswear and street culture with the couture tradition of the maison. The pearls are reminiscent of the ethereal Audrey Hepburn, who was Hubert de Givenchy’s main muse. But they find themselves on denim with wide movements, associated with “second skin” sweaters (this is a prevalent trend in all the latest Parisian collections).

Matthew presented his autumn-winter 2022 at the Défense Arena in Paris, a futuristic structure, which usually hosts concerts. And in the middle of the business district, la Défense. Evening had fallen and the skyscrapers were lit up, emptied of theirs traders. Matthew must love that metropolitan atmosphere. Inside, the creative had set up an enormous structure in the shape of a cross, all glass. At the beginning of the show, four very powerful LED lights came on. It seemed to be al Superbowl. Models and models could be seen advancing under the transparent platform and then parading above.

The designer said it at the end of the show: “I wanted to propose a truly wearable wardrobe”. And here is floating trench coats for him (a feeling of lightness glides over the entire collection) and wide pants for everyone (and better if the denim is ripped). Together, Givenchy’s high fashion tradition: pearls but also those floral feather embroideries on a minidress. Interesting, as always, the sneakers, technological and original (produced in Italy, as probably the entire collection). And then the balaclavas (another fil rouge of this fashion week’s collections), matched with gloves. «I always insert some element of protection – said Williams -. Then, due to Covid, people wore masks. So I explore the field of balaclavas. It is now almost an archetype that is used in everyday life ».

Former collaborator and still very close friend of Kanye West, Matthew is part of cool kids who associate sportswear with couture and which Bernard Arnault terribly likes, the tycoon of the French giant LVMH (of which Givenchy is a part). Yes, because that mix sells. Self-taught stylist, Matthew grew up at the crossroads of various artistic interests (including music and photography) and has an aesthetic nourished by counterculture, but also by Hollywood glories (he began by designing Lady Gaga’s stage costumes). Let’s face it: he wasn’t the first to inject street and pop culture into the DNA of such a Parisian maison as Givenchy. Roberto Tisci, rigorous dress technician, who was creative director from 2005 to 2017, before joining Burberry had done it before him (but with a very romantic touch of his own).

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