Home » Skincare, Shiseido and the principle of positive circulation

Skincare, Shiseido and the principle of positive circulation

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Blood flow gives life to the skin. Each vessel carries oxygen, nutrients and immune cells. It also regulates the pressure and temperature of the skin. When circulation is optimal, the skin appears strong, resilient and perfectly healthy. Stimulating it, especially through massage, improves the brightness and texture of the skin. Therefore there is a link between the vascular network and skin aging. These results have encouraged Shiseido laboratories to study this phenomenon for over twenty years.

Twenty years of research

The passion of Shiseido researchers for this topic was born in 2000, when they began conducting the first studies together with the Cutaneous Biology Research Center (CBRC), created in partnership with Massachusetts General Hospital and Harvard Medical School. These studies focused in particular on the capillaries, those micro-vessels strategically located in the upper layers of the dermis, bordering the epidermis that continuously irrigate.

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Shiseido research initially focused on abnormal vessels and their effects on skin quality. As early as 2002, the Japanese brand revealed the impact of UV rays on blood vessels. Excessive exposure to UV rays increases the production of VEGF (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor), a signal molecule that induces the creation of new abnormal vessels associated with an accumulation of inflammatory cells. The latter cause the release of enzymes that damage the supporting fibers, such as elastase. As a result, the signs of aging, including wrinkles, appear prematurely.

In 2009, a new partnership with Seoul University College of Medicine made it possible to improve the level of knowledge in this area. The collaboration focused on the impact of the passage of time on the decline of blood vessels. It was thus discovered that from the age of 40 the vessels begin to show more signs of deterioration. This is linked to a decrease in TIE-2 receptors expressed on the surface of the vascular walls and involved in their optimal cohesion. This phenomenon leads to excessive loss of vessels, which deprives the skin of essential nutrients.

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Later, in 2017, Shiseido teamed up with the University of Anjou (South Korea) to push the boundaries of research with new equipment. OCT (Optical Coherence Tomography) technology, for example, made it possible to study the entire vascular network of the dermis in vivo for the first time. This unprecedented approach highlighted the link between UV rays, the deterioration of the capillary network and the appearance of irregularities in pigmentation. The excess production of VEGF-A induces malformations in the network that accelerate the release of a factor that triggers the production of melanin.

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