Home Entertainment Tod’s lights up the Bicocca Hangar, Gucci shows 68 pairs of cufflinks

Tod’s lights up the Bicocca Hangar, Gucci shows 68 pairs of cufflinks

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Tod’s lights up the Bicocca Hangar, Gucci shows 68 pairs of cufflinks

Having reached the third day of fashion shows, Milan finally excites. «We work more and more like in the theater», Alessandro Michele says at the end of the show Gucci, a moving exploration of the topos of double and twinning. It rarely happens that fashion touches such an intimate and profound knot so punctually. Sixty-eight pairs of identical twins are enough, and an extraordinary glance. The narrative mechanism is revealed in the finale, accompanied by a poignant composition for strings – made on purpose, just like in the theater – when the curtain that divides the catwalk is raised and the models come out of the two openings of the backstage, take for hand and, having crossed the whole platform, they separate.

The Gucci collection for SS 2023

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Other designers in the past have touched on the theme of the double: Marc Jacobs from Louis Vuitton, Jun Takahashi from Undercover, but this time it’s different. The reaction of the audience is guttural: lump in the throat and tears. Similar to an initiatory rite of reunion with the other half long sought, the usual walk on the catwalk triggers thoughts that have always run through the human mind. Thoughts that Alessandro Michele, son of a twin mother who shared the house with his identical sister and her family, solicits with feeling and intensity, and a synthetic rather than redundant theatrical verve.

«The fashion I do, on the other hand, is clear to read: I like to mention it, with an almost pornographic evidence», he explains about the collection. At this stage it is the 80s of clubs and the late 70s of Lysergic folk, interspersed with graphic explorations of highly sensual silhouettes. The body is the center of attention, intensified by the double, but at this stage, consciously, everything takes second place compared to the staging, because today it is only the story that counts.

The twinning theme is in the air, and within an hour it’s back from Sunnei, where, however, it is a pretext for a different and no less meaningful reflection: the ability of fashion to change the perception of the person. In plain clothes or in Sunnei’s playful fashion, twins are the same in substance, but appear different.

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And Tod’s there is no risk, but neither is the place. Walter Chiapponi, capable creative director, creates a perfectly normal wardrobe of uncut, liquid pieces made of exceptional materials. Dresses that do not show off but want to wear, and the location is spectacular anyway, the austere but lively Hangar Bicocca.

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