Original title: Wu He and Kid Milli have been on the upper body one after another, three Korean cutting-edge brands worthy of attention
Author: 1626 Trend Selection
Juun.J、Andersson Bell、POST ARCHIVE FACTION、Hyein Seo In recent years, a number of Korean fashion brands have attracted a lot of attention on the world stage, and with the continuous export of Korean pop culture such as K-Pop and TV series, it has indirectly provided fertile ground for fledgling fashion stars. soil.
Today, we have selected 3 cutting-edge Korean brands worthy of everyone’s attention, and have a look at the fashion appearance under the new forces in South Korea.
A few years ago, Kid Milli quickly became popular due to his outstanding performance on the Korean rap show Show Me The Money 777. At the same time, his highly recognizable personal wear not only set off a wave of imitation, but also made Raucohouse, Stone Island , Cav Empt and other brands have entered the public eye.
It is not difficult for friends who usually pay attention to Kid Milli to find some changes in his wearing preferences in recent years: from the rich stacking that emphasized layering in the past, it has gradually changed to today’s focus on overall neat lines and functional elements, such as Arc’ He likes teryx and And Wander, and of course, the new Korean Xlim is also one of his most popular brands.
Xlim was founded by Kid Milli and Dean’s royal stylist DO HEE in 2021. Benefiting from the huge halo of the two stars, the brand has been well exposed as soon as it came out.
Focusing on the first official release series, the geometric design of long sleeves has undoubtedly become an explosion. As long as you search for brand entries on social media, most of the content is shared by this long Tee.
But the pieces that best embody the Xlim brand’s aesthetic have to return to jackets: chiseled silhouettes, detailed tailoring and an unobtrusive bodice fit in with Kid Milli’s Techwear ethos. When he participated in the shooting of the Korean version of VOGUE earlier, he said, ‘I have been fond of clothes with hidden details recently, and comfort and practicality are very important. Now I can understand why elders always want to buy outdoor sportswear. . ‘
The reason why Xlim can be so popular in a short period of time is that I personally think that the Gorpcore Style, which is popular all over the world, is indispensable.
People gradually have a strong interest in outdoor sports and outdoor styling, but it does not necessarily mean that everyone has to buy a professional-level outdoor item. Clothes can naturally meet the needs of many urban people.
Take the recent EP.2 Synopsis ice blue jacket as an example. The color itself is very eye-catching. In addition, the contrasting color embellishment presented by the cold dyeing process on the pockets and the delicate texture of the lightweight silicone coating make the visual effect rich and full. , When the jacket is taken off, it can be quickly stored into a small handbag, which is full of portability.
In terms of accessories, Xlim also aims at the tastes of millennial consumers. One of the representative waterproof satchels has a unique wrinkle texture on the surface. The ribbons at the slipknot position can be adjusted at will, and the shape is highly plastic.
Kusikohc, perhaps everyone is relatively unfamiliar with this name, but its single products often appear in many musicians and in many fashion magazines. For example, some time ago, Tizzy T was asked by netizens for the source of the racing suit from the brand.
In Korea, Kusikohc has gradually become an excellent choice for creating star looks, such as Wu Hyuk and Yaeji’s special for Secret Magazine, NCT 127’s new album MV, Simon D’s performance stage and so on.
Kusikohc was founded in 2016 by the acclaimed photographer Cho Gi-seok, but his achievements in photography are more fruitful than fashion design, and he has been repeatedly featured in VOGUE (recent Jeong Ho Yeon cover), iD Magazine, Wallpaper He was invited by other units to shoot, and was also responsible for the planning of the PRADA Cloudbust In Seoul Project. And the most out-of-the-world is his series of photography works about the coldness of technology: the intimate distance between people is so alienated in the context of the Internet, it is chilling.
‘A brand spans graphic, fashion, image-making, interior design and so on, and to be able to build that ensemble, I need to know and try everything, fashion photography is one of them, but somehow it’s accumulating more and more s work. . . . . . ‘, Cho Gi Seok told 1granary with a smile.
The official release of Kusikohc’s quarterly works is not many, and it has been temporarily suspended for six years. However, the latest 2022 spring and summer continues to use the name of the brand’s first series ‘Right To Fail’, marking Kusikohc’s departure again.
The visual impact runs through the series, the sophisticated collage technique is presented in a variety of experimental ways, and the fabric patchesafter burningSew on jackets or shirts for an edgy fringe effect.Among them, the red leather suit is like an art sculpture, and the angular fragments are entangled around it, creating a multi-dimensional architectural beauty.
The crumpling, kinking, destruction, and deconstruction that can be seen throughout the series build Kusikohc’s rebellious world one by one. In addition to the ready-to-wear line, the brand has also specially created an ‘Experimental’ branch for magazines and red carpet styling, which can be understood as a high-definition-like existence.
The brand has recently been creating special projects for Nike, modularizing it based on Nike shoes and apparel.
‘I wanted to express a feeling of rebellion, resistance. I’m obsessed with Antwerp and the graduation show at Central Saint Martins, and the early work of Alexander McQueen’, says Cho Gi Seok.
Today, Kusikohc has a more complete management system under the management of partner Alfredo Canducci. The addition of ready-to-wear designers allows Cho Gi Seok to focus on the conceptual direction and creative level: Currently, there is a Concept Book column on the brand’s official website. , sharing the inspirational thinking and tidbits behind the design, and looking forward to more masterpieces from Kusikohc, who is on the right track.
Different from the above two, Jiyong Kim, who has been deeply influenced by Miyashita Takahiro and Issey Miyake since childhood, studied at Tokyo Bunka Fashion Institute and London Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design. designer.
Not only that, he also has internship experience in many fashion brands such as Mihara Yasuhiro, Lemaire, Louis Vuitton, etc., like a sponge, constantly absorbing nutrients, so that Mihara’s deconstruction, Lemaire team’s harsh pursuit of details, Virgil Abloh’s conception The inclusiveness and openness of creativity gradually broadens their aesthetic vision.
In June 2020, Jiyong Kim’s undergraduate graduation project was a great success. He explored a unique fabric treatment method ‘Sun-Bleaching’ in the series ‘Daylight Matters’, mainly collecting some waste fabrics and placing them on mannequins Or wire railings, with a subtle effect of natural fading with sun exposure.
Living in a global context that advocates sustainable development, Jiyong Kim, who is determined not to use chemical dyes, deserves to play the role of an innovator, but the difficulty behind it should only be understood by him.Although nature is Kim’s best partner, the weather is never accurate. Rain, wind, humidity and other factors can affect the final sun exposure, and the length of time required will vary depending on the clothes.
‘I think everyone has some old clothes in their closet, but people just throw it away when it’s faded and looks ugly. I want to reinvent that perception and encourage people to see it as something precious and unique’, in a feature article Kim talks about his vision of changing the way we dress and consume. In his eyes, Upcycling is actually a new way of luxury.
In order to delve deeper into Sun-Bleaching, Kim also looked to India to study how local residents avoid sunburn in hot climates and the unique silhouettes of their clothes, which often have a strong South Asian atmosphere in their ready-to-wear designs.
Jiyong Kim, who has attracted the attention of the industry, has naturally gained a lot of opportunities. Settling in GR8, a well-known buyer store in Tokyo, allows him to have enough funds to start the fashion brand of the same name and continue to study for a master’s degree.
In the first half of this year, Kim’s personal career ushered in the first highlight moment. His master’s works were included in the MA Fashion CSM Collection, and he performed during the London Fashion Week. The turns of reports from famous fashion media such as VOGUE and V Magazine made him quickly stand in the industry. under the spotlight.
In addition, Jiyong Kim immediately released the brand’s 2022 autumn and winter series. It is obvious that the entire product structure is becoming more and more mature, and the stacking effect, outstanding fold texture, delicate drape and loose silhouette of the fabric further emphasize his design. language.
It is worth mentioning that the initial series of cutting-edge designers usually pay more attention to the creative concept, and the appreciation value is often higher than the actual commercial value. It just reflects that its design can subtly walk between the market and creativity, which is commendable.
As for the most difficult part, the delivery is according to the scheduled time of the order. After all, such a craftsmanship requires a lot of time and energy before and after the fabric is exposed to the sun.
In addition to the three brands mentioned in this article, such as Painters, known for its maximalism, Blackmerle, which is good at deconstruction, and Kanghyuk, who was nominated for the LVMH Prize, etc., they are all Korean potential brands that should not be underestimated. The fashion industry needs a steady stream of fresh blood, and it is also expected that these rising stars can present a different landscape.