Luca Giovanetto and the call of the olive trees: a passion turned into work

A native of Montestrutto, 53, he is a master pruner at the national school. Frantoiano, in December will also be a taster to become an oil technician

SEVENTH VICTON

The Americans define it the call, the call. It is a way to describe that condition in which a passion does not simply address a man’s life but becomes his life itself.

Luca Giovanetto felt it and he came from an ancient art: olive growing. Following it was natural for this 53-year-old native of Montestrutto, projecting himself into the continuous acquisition and constant deepening of knowledge about plants that are among the oldest on earth.

A path studded with academic qualifications that led him, in 2010, to enrollment in the register of pruners qualified for olive tree pruning in the “professional” section at Assam Marche and to the appointment, in 2020, as master pruner at the National School of olive tree pruning. Today he divides himself between the latter activity and that of the oil mill, managing the plant of the Vialfrè Asspo.

Last September a course in Aprol Umbria as an oil mill technician was the umpteenth stage of his professional career. «An oil mill must be extremely prepared from a technical, agronomic and oil tasting point of view – says Giovanetto -. This is why in December I will attend a training period to also become a taster. With this qualification I will be, to all intents and purposes, an oil technician, who is the maximum figure who can work in an oil production plant. You don’t need a Ferrari if you don’t know how to drive it: you need to be able to carry out the transformation process in a technically flawless way, paying meticulous attention to hygiene during all its phases ». The expert shares some data on the factors that influence the excellence of an oil: “35% depends on the quality of the healthy olives, 25% on the cleaning of the mill, 20% on the machine, the remaining 20% ​​on the cleaning of the ‘oil. We therefore understand how preponderant the work of man is ».

The training and professional experiences acquired make him sought after: «A plant is being built in Trino Vercellese and they contacted me to run it. At the same time, the Valle d’Aosta olive growers association offered me the role of technician in an oil mill that is about to be started up in the Valley ».

The future? «In the immediate future I will divide myself between being an oil mill technician and completing my professionalism with the acquisition of the qualification of taster. Knowing how to taste an oil means being able to teach how to taste it, to know its characteristics and its health and nutraceutical qualities, and also to be able to give the right advice to those who bring the olives to obtain a quality production ».

This Piedmontese has become a reference point for olive growing on a national level. «I receive invitations from Tuscany and the Marche. I bring to these regions the skills acquired locally, to then acquire new ones that will become part of my baggage when I return ». The question of whether it plans to expand its business also internationally arises spontaneously: “Italy is number three in the world for exports after Spain and Greece, but it is number one for biodiversity with 400 quality olive trees. Italian technicians are therefore leaders and emerging countries, such as Tunisia and Morocco, are looking for them ».

Olive growing has been heavily affected by the fluctuating climate trend this year. “The capricious spring in the center-north delayed flowering and then the sudden heat damaged it – notes Giovanetto -. Compared to other years only 30% of the flowers have turned into olives and the sudden changes in temperatures in the summer have then made so that the harvest was only 50% of last year ». However, the veil of disappointment immediately leaves room for a positive note: «The surviving olives are beautiful and, if worked with the right skill, they can generate an excellent final product». From Giovanetto an appeal aimed at changing the destiny of Piedmontese olive growing: «It must be recognized at the regional agricultural level. A recognition, through the exact calculation of how many hectares are occupied for this cultivation, would allow access to European contributions and funds. Piedmontese olive growing must become structural. ”An effective metaphor compares wine to oil: the former is a soloist, that is, it can also be tasted alone; the second is an orchestral one, that is, it must harmonize with the food, enhancing its flavor and thus rising above a simple condiment. Luca Giovanetto, with great strides, sets out to become an excellent conductor.