It is now a fact that men’s fashion is looking beyond tradition, without giving up an impeccable wardrobe. Perhaps thanks to the pandemic, the elegance has become more and more informal and relaxed, which does not mean that you have to stay in pajamas and slippers, on the contrary. Starting from the codes of the classic, new details are sought, new combinations are experimented. And even the choice of fabrics becomes more careful and “reasoned”, favoring natural, precious and enveloping fibers such as alpaca and cashmere. But innovation, the real one, speaks a green language. This is witnessed in these days by Pitti Uomo, the Florentine review on autumn / winter 2022-23 trends, which with a “chapter” dedicated to sustainability aims to completely subvert the concept according to which responsible fashion rhymes with fashion without style. As if to say that in clothing and accessories with low-impact production requirements, certified fabrics, recovered, recycled and experimental hybrids, the engine still remains creativity and design.
Tombolini, for example, has managed to bring together tailoring, eco-sustainability and technology: at Pitti he launches the Zero Gravity collection, an expression of lightness in a mélange of stretch wool, cashmere and silk, and the Zero Impact capsule that enhances attention to the environment with the antibacterial suit the biodegradable suit. If quality has always been one of the cornerstones of the Marche company, which has brought its formal and relaxed elegance all over the world, with Silvio Calvigioni Tombolini – 37 years old, third generation at the helm of the family business and grandson of the founder – a step forward has been made on the innovation front: «We focus on quality, innovation and invest heavily in research» says the manager.
How the male wardrobe has changed in the era of Covid. In a world where comfort is enhanced and elegance becomes more relaxed, does formal wear survive?
“In the era of a pandemic and with the smart working our collections have been contaminated by sportswear models to which we have applied fabrics of high sartorial tradition. We have implemented company services to be fast and dynamic in responding to the requests of our customers, in particular with the TMB Running collection, made of garments made with recycled fabrics. We are very attentive to sustainability with our machine washable garments and with the biodegradable clothing capsule. This is the new frontier of the classic. For us, the new values of craftsmanship, eco-sustainability and quality of the fabrics are the basis of a contemporary luxury wardrobe where each garment is our favorite piece and where every addition is considered “.
How can tailoring and technology be combined together, what are the meeting points?
«Our tailoring has always been combined with the most advanced technologies to create high-tech collections such as the Zero Gravity line and the sportier TMB Running collection for cutting-edge and comfortable garments to wear. Our strong bond with the territory and with people best express the tradition and tailoring of Italian manufacturing through a study of the product focused on the continuous search for a unique style, attention to detail and the choice of accessories. We focus on quality, innovation and invest heavily in technology and research ».
Fabrics have now taken on a decisive role, you present Zero Gravity …. the name says so … lightness?
«For us the Zero Gravity project represents this season the return and the need for good taste for an innovative classic. We are sure that the collection made with the best materials to give more value to the garment will be appreciated by top customers. We made the lightest dress in the world, the lightest suit in the world».
One of your latest projects is the Zero Impact capsule with 100% biodegradable garments.
«With Zero Impact we have carried out an eco-sustainable project, the garments are made with natural yarns and even the accessories that make it up such as the sewing thread, buttons, hanger and labels are green and biodegradable. The Washable line, machine washable made with innovative fabrics and techniques, is part of our Zero Impact project. The great attention to sustainability therefore starts from the continuous research of our product department and also invades our sportier TMB Running collection, where we use recycled and recyclable technical fabrics ».
Intrigues the dress made with antibacterial materials .. …
“For several seasons now we have been making Travel suits and jackets with antibacterial fabrics, 100% pure wool that is always machine washable in order to pay attention to the final consumer who travels”.
What is your next step in terms of fashion and sustainability?
«Zero Impact for us is a project to safeguard our planet. The production techniques are very advanced and we aim to limit the consumption of water and CO2 more and more. For us, every moment is a new beginning. The company has set itself the goal of becoming green, to minimize energy losses and is continuing this path with the inclusion of solar panels to become 100% eco-sustainable “.
We are trying to get out of the tunnel …. can an event like Pitti mark a sort of restart in the world of fashion?
«We have always participated in the demonstration in Florence Pitti Uomo because we believe direct physical contact with our buyers and final consumers is fundamental. Pitti is the most important fair in the world for men’s fashion, where we can reach and make our products known all over the world, so it represents for us one of the great possibilities for developing business and attracting new partners “.
Speaking of business, what are your plans for 2022?
«We are developing a retail policy that moves towards the internationalization of the brand with boutiques inaugurated in Doha in Qatar, in Almaty in Kazakhstan and in Vietnam. The operation is part of a territorial expansion that focuses on markets such as the United States, Russia, Asia and the Middle East. Another goal is to advance with significant market shares for the Tombolini women’s collection which has very strong stylistic signs and is based on the study of an engineering modeling shop. We are ready to face the challenges that await us for our future together with our workers and our values. We are very attached to the Marche, to the Italian territory and to tradition, and we want to export our know-how and our wealth of expertise all over the world. Le Marche, our land is a concentrate of Italy. As my grandfather wrote over 50 years ago: The future has ancient roots. For us it represents a very important guideline ».