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When the Duce found Carema’s cask empty

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The embarrassment one day in 1939: Mussolini found the barrel empty as he passed. There are many anecdotes on the Carema, Pope Paul III Farnese “was happy when he was given a barrel”.

CAREMA. «A stylistic work of art between the Romanesque and the Gothic, in which all those pillars on the hanging terraces are similar to the continuous loggias and blind arches of the Roman-Gothic churches». Thus the historian Augusto Cavallari Murat described, fifty years ago, the series of pylons and dry stone walls that make Carema one of the most characteristic agricultural landscapes of all, such as to deserve notoriety since ancient times.

The wine could not have been less exceptional, the fame of which is marked by a rich and savory anecdote. Starting from the appreciation of Pope Paul III Farnese who, according to his bottler Sante Lancerio, “was always happy whenever he was given a barrel, as he considered it an excellent drink by Princes and Lords”. Also in the sixteenth century, the doctor Andrea Bacci also mentioned Carema among the delicious wines of the Vatican cellars: it was he, in fact, who noted how much the Pontiff loved to receive as a gift a few bottles of the “Wine of Invrejia, a perfect drink for the lords”.

More recently, in 1929, the Parish Bulletin underlined that “His Excellency Monsignor Mondaini told us that he had known Carema in China and India”.

Anecdotes, in Carema, also flourish in the cellars. Among these, the imagination of all who visit it certainly strikes the Crota da Alma, the historic cellar of Alma Vairetto (in the nineteenth century known as the award-winning Cantina Martinetti Gaudenzio), where the walls and the frescoed ceiling give the illusion of a beautiful garden and where the barrels are an authentic masterpiece. From Garibaldi, to Venus, from Bacchus to the fauns: each barrel bears a sculpture and all together make the place unique.

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Nothing has changed today compared to the photo that portrays this cellar in 1889, except for the fact that the console at the back of the room has over time been replaced by a barrel topped with Gianduia. A barrel linked to a curious episode that, in 1939, saw it temporarily placed on the state road for the passage of the Duce directed to Aosta. Next to it, the Caremese delegation lined up for the welcome. Great was the embarrassment when the dictator, well knowing the fame of Carema’s wine, asked to be able to tap a taste: the barrel was in fact empty. The incident was remedied with some bottles sent to Aosta the next day.

More worldly, on the other hand, is the paragraph from La Gazzetta del Popolo, dated October 1968: «If you go to El Morocco in New York, you can ask for Carema», confirming the international fame gained by Canavese wine.

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