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The Ukrainian borsch is a Unesco heritage: beaten Russia

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The Ukrainian borsch is a Unesco heritage: beaten Russia

Won theUkraineat least the battle on the borsch. If anyone doubts, borsch is not a river in the Donbass but a typical Ukrainian and Russian dish that UNESCO has today recognized – in its Uvranian recipe – as an intangible cultural heritage. A decision that Russia had opposed.

The borsch: the Ukrainian recipe

Borsch is a pact made with beets, fresh cabbage, broth, beef and pork, and with sour cream. The candidacy, launched in 2019, should have been evaluated between 2023 and 2024 but the Unesco Committee has decided to move forward to this year and to proceed urgently, with the support of Italy as well.

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The Ukraine-Russia war on the borsch

To the Ukrainian request, Russia responded with a message from @Russia, the official twitter profile of the Kremlin, which claimed the authorship of the recipe. “A timeless classic! #Borsch is one of Russia’s most famous & beloved #dishes & a symbol of traditional cuisine “. That is: “A timeless classic, #Borsch is one of the most famous and beloved Russian #plates and a symbol of traditional cuisine)”. Clearer than that!

Yet, despite the certainties of both contenders, the thing is by no means so clear. In the sense that the spread of the recipe in all Eastern European cuisines, from Belarusian to Polish, to Jewish, offers everyone the opportunity to consider it their own identity dish. According to a widespread saying in Slavic countries, there are as many borschs as there are grandmothers in Eastern Europe.

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But if everyone is right, Ukraine is more right than everyone else. Because in all likelihood it is Kiev that can include the famous soup in its original gastronomic heritage. Which the presence of beetroot makes it red. But he doesn’t snore. In reality, the attribution of the dish to the cuisine of the immense Federation would be a Soviet legacy. And, according to many Ukrainian historians and gastronomes, it was due to Stalin himself. Who saw food as an emblem of identity and a political symbol of great influence on popular sentiment. So he started from the table to unify the over one hundred cultures and ethnic groups of the Bolshevik Union, born from the October Revolution and consolidated by the Second World War. And he entrusted the Commissioner of Food Anastas Ivanovic Mikojan, later a powerful minister of trade and Nikita Khrushchev’s faithful deputy, as well as a well-known cook and gourmet, the task of creating a new Soviet national cuisine.

Borsch and war: “Cook it all over the world”

In the early days of the conflict, Ukrainian chef Ievgen Klopotenko, who has been at the forefront since 2019 to obtain Unesco recognition for the “Ukrainian borscht cuisine culture”, had asked chefs from all over the world to put this soup on their menus to show solidarity in Kiev: “I’m asking all international chefs to cook borsch because it is a Ukrainian dish – he wrote on social media -. To cook it, to serve it in your restaurant, to post it, to donate the proceeds if possible. Make borsch not war. Sometimes it doesn’t take much, it would help us feel less alone and make us feel the support of our colleagues around the world “.

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