roberta favrin
The official verdict arrived yesterday from the Unesco Committee in Paris. The search and quarrying of truffles in Italy become part of the cultural heritage of humanity. Historically rooted in the hills of the Langhe and Monferrato, the ritual of the search is based on the deep knowledge of the natural environment, on the symbiotic relationship between man and animal. On the one hand the skills of the truffle hunter, on the other the nose of the skilfully trained dog. In between, a terroir sprinkled with stories, anecdotes, practices and proverbs that tell of an ancient knowledge. The process for recognition started eight years ago with the application presented to the Government by the representatives of the approximately 70,000 Italian truffle hunters, in the front row Piedmont with the Trifulau associations, the National Center for Truffle Studies of Alba, the Region. In March 2020 the Farnesina officially presented the candidacy, yesterday the circle closed with the inclusion of the file in the Unesco World Heritage List.
«We are proud to know that the search for truffles is a world heritage», says Paolo Carretto, secretary of the Trifulau Asti and Monferrini Association (Atam), which brings together about a hundred hunters. «The social media society in which we are immersed goes against the trend with the essence of the search, which feeds on nights and silences, secrets and solitude. We and our dog – he continues -. Having said that, we are happy that the practice has been included among the intangible assets of humanity to be preserved and protected. Our commitment will be even more careful in transmitting the tradition to the new generations, but it is essential to protect the ecosystem, above all the truffle plants. Piedmont is one of the few regions that supports owners with a small compensation for the maintenance of the plants. In July, the digital application procedure was introduced, which is not easily accessible to everyone, it would be advisable to allow the paper version as well in the previous way “.
There are about 1500 trifulau from Asti. “The hunters under 50 are prevalently – explains Piero Botto, president of Atam – and at each exam session for the issue of the research suitability card we see more and more young men and women overlook the practice “. Today there is no course to become a trifulau, there is a text to study to prepare for the exam. «Unesco recognition – continues Botto – brings with it the recognition of the truffle hunter who is not a profession but a hobby that makes us responsible. The person who receives the card should know not only the legislation but also have and know how to practice cultivation concepts, such as the care and cleaning of plants and soil. The Region should give us a hand in setting up training courses ».
It was not a memorable year for the white truffle. The harvest was very low and the prices skyrocketed: staggering figures were heard in restaurants, up to 800 euros per hectogram. «The climate penalized production – confirms Carretto – it was optimal until July but saw clearly adverse conditions in the following two months. The late rains did not have a great remedial effect ».
The season ends on January 31st. «We are waiting for the full moon that will start on Sunday – says Carretto – According to the peasant tradition it should be propitious, we hope it will make us close the year with a smile. The satisfaction of finding a nice truffle is priceless ». –
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