White spaces, monumental and full of possibilities: now in its fifth day, the round of Parisian fashion shows finally releases the stylistic declarations of weight and depth, but it does so without tricks and scenic deceptions. The clothes speak for themselves, and only those, presented in neutral boxes. From Loewe, Jonathan Anderson he reflects with imaginative verve on the relationship between natural and digital, but also between real and virtual, and finds a tangible and present solution. «They are all looking for how to do something in the metaverse – he says – but it would perhaps be more interesting to work on how to create one different materiality“. In Paris Anderson brings the creations of the LVMH group maison to the catwalk, but he also passed through Milan, where he showed the brand that bears his name.
The collection for Loewe defines a new reality, in which the natural and the artificial complement and interpenetrate. The message is entrusted to a series of unheard-of pieces that are probably, at the moment, only ideas, suggestions, stimuli that can be further developed. On a group of garments – coats, sweatshirts and pants, as well as on sneakers (photo above) – grow long blades of grass – real – which are the result of an experimental process developed with Paula Ulargui Escalona; others multiply digital screens that reproduce stock images of landscapes and natural situations, including a passionate kiss. All this in the frame of a collection of standardized archetypes and then inflated, or skimpy, from the bomber to the running pants. The look is very reminiscent of the tech guys who, in Silicon Valley, have made and are making the revolutions that overwhelm us all, upsetting the global way of living, seeing and thinking. Revolutions that begin, however, as almost psychedelic visions. The collection has just this effect, of expanding the mind; integrates concept and product with the same syncretic spirit with which natural and artificial are integrated. The result is pure progress.
Also Craig Green presents in a white space, and the spirit is equally progressive, of a lucid, cutting, constructive psychedelia. The journey, mental and material, starts from white to end in an explosion of colors, and from the world of childhood to adulthood and finally back. The roots of Green’s work, who is a visionary with a pragmatic spirit, lie in workwear and this makes his musings, even the most difficult to follow, concrete and tangible. On this tour the detour between archetypes and iconography includes equestrian world, adventure, floating sculptures, giant prints and even the formal dress with a tie, and it is particularly complex, but what comes out is a magnificent puzzle of pieces that do not fit together. , and which in this glitch unleash the innovative potential.
The logic of collage meets a marked chromatic sensitivity from Colorthe beautiful project of Junichi Abe, which returns to parade after a few seasons of silence. The test is tense, energetic, personal.
And Hermes, Veronique Nichanian for some seasons now it has taken to refresh and rejuvenate the sentence, while avoiding youthful forcing. This season shorts abound, from morning to evening, like colors, on light shapes and airy volumes. For the rest it is the usual and welcome nonchalance, with the skill of craftsmanship and the luxury of matter of which only Hermés is capable.
The rodeo of Casablancacomplete with real horses that add little or nothing to the narrative, has an air of costume and kitsch, while the multicultural Olympics of marine greenhouse they are the mix of activewear, ski hair looks, denim and 90s references – Versace, in this case – that the brand has been accustomed to for some time. The product abounds, but the momentum is weakened at the moment, so that the result is not very personal.