In “post-growth” economies focus more on what it means to thrive in human terms and less in terms of continued economic expansion. This is the gist of the theory that Tim Jackson, economist expert in sustainability and lecturer at the University of Surrey, presented at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, held in digital form on 7 and 8 October last, a sort of Davos of the fashion industry. fashion focused on strategies, innovations and technologies to make it truly sustainable, and which shares this philosophy with Copenhagen Fashion Week.
This year’s theme was direct and provocative, “Prosperity vs. growth “: fashion must learn to produce less and better, by now it is clear that there is no other way to reduce its impact on the health of the planet. “If we convince companies to produce less, they will be forced to buy better quality materials and offer more durable products,” said Jenna Johnson, head of Patagonia Inc., who also attended the Summit along with 60 other industry members. global fashion.
How to reduce emissions with demand increasing by 63%?
This is not a simple transition, but it must begin immediately: according to a 2019 report from the World Bank, with 2.4 billion dollars in global turnover and 75 million people involved, the fashion industry is the third most polluting after that of the automotive and tech; it produces 10% of global CO2 emissions, more than the combined air and sea transport system. Emissions that will be driven, and not reduced, by the global demand for clothing and footwear, expected to increase by 63% within the next 10 years. Unless, in fact, you start to invest collectively and continuously on the topics indicated.
Regenerative agriculture, recycled fibers, energy efficiency of the supply chain
Therefore, producing less means producing better, more durable and more responsible garments, for example by investing in regenerative agriculture for cotton, the most used natural fiber but also one that consumes the most water. Still on the textile front, make recycled fibers widely available, derived from renewable sources such as cellulose, and reduce those derived from petroleum. Follow energy efficiency and the correct use of resources along the entire supply chain, with shared traceability systems, and obviously invest in the circular economy, which must concern every phase of the creation and realization of a garment.
Enough with the “eco-capsule” logic
It will be crucial to abandon the “eco-capsule” logic, with which experiments of greenwashing, and profoundly change the entire industry, at every stage. The dramatic UN Ippc report, published last summer, left a glimmer of hope: keeping the Earth’s temperature rise to within 1.5 degrees is still possible if emissions are completely cut by 2050. But we must act immediately, Act Now, one of the most recurring and convinced phrases of Greta Thunberg.