The haute horlogerie models unveiled at the gates of Geneva during the Gucci Wonderland event have confirmed how much the watch is an increasingly central asset for the maison. Not a novelty, given that this year marks the 50th anniversary of Gucci Timepieces, but the acceleration in this sector, in which the brand presented its first haute horlogerie collection in 2021, is evident.
Furthermore, we should not forget the decision communicated in January by the Kering group, of which Gucci is a part, of the agreement for the sale of 100% of its stake in Sowind Group (owner of the Swiss watch brands Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin), in the optics of a group strategy more oriented to concentrate resources on brands that, within it, can become increasingly important. How is Gucci doing in the world of hands.
The proposals presented in Geneva
His latest proposals presented in Geneva are strictly Swiss made pieces (the maison designs the models and produces cases and dials, while internally develops the movements which are then produced by external suppliers who work exclusively for the brand) limited to a very few examples, three of which they introduce as many new calibers. The first is a manual flying tourbillon with titanium bridges, which animates the Gucci 25H Skeleton Tourbillon and is visible through the dial and transparent caseback. Of this model, available with a 100% recycled gold (white or yellow) case, there are four versions, two with a bracelet in the same material as the case and three with a rubber strap. The G-Timeless Planetarium is a watch that stands out for the twelve brilliant-cut gems (they are blue tanzanites for the version with the white gold case, green tsavorites for the pink gold one and yellow beryls for the yellow gold one) that embellish the edge of the dial and that, once a button is pressed, they begin to rotate. This happens thanks to the second new movement introduced by Gucci, manually wound with a flying tourbillon in the center of the dial.
The moon phases are the complication activated by the third new manual caliber on the model with a meteorite dial G-Timeless Moonlight, proposed in a version with a white gold case and two in pink gold. Gucci’s 2022 Haute Horlogerie collection adds two more versions with diamonds and opal-decorated dials, to its recognizable G-Timeless Dancing Bees family with tourbillons and the famous swinging bees scattered across the dial. Finally, news also for the Grip line, whose most precious evolution, the Grip Sapphire with sapphire crystal case, from this year also has two versions in the mint green shade. After these launches, the impression is that Gucci is only at the beginning of its journey into the most important segment of the watch industry.