Hed Mayner: The interpretation of Oversize to the extreme

Original title: Hed Mayner: The interpretation of Oversize to the extreme

Author: 1626 Trend Selection

Rooted at the junction of the Eurasian continent and bordering Lebanon in the north and Israel in the east, it has been inhabited by residents of different ethnic backgrounds and religious beliefs since ancient times. You may have heard of Masada National Park, a famous local attraction, and you may also know that it has been involved in wars and conflicts for many years, but focusing on the fashion level, the slightly out of place word has been somewhat related to Israel in recent years.

Today, we will come to know some known as ‘the best among the emerging designers’ – Israeli designer Hed Mayner.

　　LVMH Prize Special Prize Winner

The LVMH Prize, a competition for young designers organized by the French luxury goods giant LVMH, is believed to have been heard before. The award has ‘opened’ the careers of Virgil Abloh, current Balenciaga creative director Demna Gvasalia, Jacquemus and Doublet founder Masayuki Ino. There is no doubt that career is a channel for cutting-edge design to quickly enter the mainstream vision.

Jump to three years ago, when the LVMH Prize set sustainable development and gender-neutral issues as the two major creative themes, although the final award was won by African-American designer Thebe Magugu, but Hed Mayner, with his ethnic color The design method still beat the remaining 6 contestants to win the Karl Largefeld Special Award.

Delphine Arnault, vice president of Louis Vuitton, praised ‘Hed Mayner for breaking away from the traditional structure of men’s and women’s clothing through incomparably elegant lines, blending simplicity with luxury, and bringing more possibilities for proportion and volume.’

With the passage of time, whether it is brand reputation or series design, Hed Mayner seems to have surpassed the current champion: he has repeatedly appeared in fashion magazines such as “Harper’s BAZAAR”, and has successively entered SSENSE, Slam Jam and well-known e-commerce platforms and social media. The ubiquitous fan outfit posts testify to the popularity of the designer’s eponymous brand, which may not have even occurred to him himself.

Hed Mayner was born in the village of Amuka in northern Israel in 1986. This soil near the border of Lebanon has been deeply influenced by various cultures all the year round, which has subtly created his nomadic personality of following freedom and made him look at the things around him. When you have the keen vision of an outsider.

During his studies, Hed Mayner moved to Jerusalem, the capital of Israel, and then attended Bezare College of Art and Design, ‘Jerusalem made me feel like I was living in the center of the world, and I was surrounded by many interesting ideas, such as spirituality, sacred traditions, human nature concepts of fragility, power and nobility, etc.’Hed Mayner recalled in an interview with Metal Magazine.

Here, he also noticed the unique habit of local residents wearing ill-fitting clothes, such as the commuter suits that can be seen everywhere but never fit the wearer’s figure, looking like a child wearing his father’s coat, but Mayner is especially appreciate,

‘There’s no Dries Van Noten store or Savile Row for bespoke clothing, and even for office workers, it’s not a cultural tradition for them to wear suits, and sometimes it’s a weird contradiction.’’

After successfully completing the course, Mayner went to France to complete his advanced studies in the famous fashion school Institut Français de la Mode. The fashion blood flowing in Paris has greatly enriched Mayner’s aesthetic tone. He specializes in book knowledge while experiencing the mystery of ancient craftsmanship. It is also because of this multicultural personal experience that he has built up his ability to seamlessly connect international orientation with national characteristics.

Tailors, furniture designers, shoemakers, everything seems not so suitable for Hed Mayner. In 2015, he returned to Israel and finally established a personal brand to continue his inner desire to create things.

　　Radical Oversize silhouette aesthetic

　　Throughout the current fashion industry, Oversize silhouettes have long been common in major brand shows, such as Balenciaga, Y/Project, Juun.J, etc. There are countless similar examples.However, the still cutting-edge Hed Mayner can stillDo not be submerged in the sea of ​​​​brands in the context of loose and dominant,get out of yourselfthe way,It is rare.

Influenced by his Jewish heritage, the national costumes that pervade Israel mean a steady stream of design inspiration for creator Hed Mayner, from Hasidic dress to military clothing, from earth tones to religious elements, along with his vision for wardrobe classics. The innovative interpretation of the style outlines an aesthetic system that combines Eastern and Western symbols.

In 2017, when Hed Mayner debuted at Paris Fashion Week, his exploration of volume was still in its infancy, but his subtle capture of colors and fabrics gave the entire collection a restrained and luxurious atmosphere.Presenting a seemingly effortless fashion sense,‘break away‘ The so-called fashion trend.

The authoritative fashion media WWD then selected him as one of the most interesting designers of the year,‘He continues to push boundaries in silhouette and structure, proving that he deserves attention.’

　　‘The uniforms that each group uses to express itself fascinates me. The ancient Jewish tailors were more about wrapping the body than shaping the lines. There is a tension in garments full of fluidity and structure, especially for contemporary men.The exaggerated silhouette looks like wearing an older brother’s coat, which is both empowering and vulnerable’，Mayner explains its huge size.

For the Fall/Winter 2021 collection, Hed Mayner not only took a more radical approach to Oversize, but also focused on another key aspect of the brand’s aesthetic: the fabric, crafted from classic materials such as soft Italian wool and British tweed, to create a laid-back feel. delicate texture.

At the same time, he made a lot of articles on proportions by omitting lapels, elongated tops, injecting asymmetry, flared sleeves, scimitar sleeves and wide shoulders, and the use of a lot of warm colors gave a bit of poetry. Rigid and soft, heavy and light, decent and rebellious, groups of words seem contradictory, but they are completely attached to personal design.

It is worth mentioning that in Israel, local residents basically do not buy khaki clothes, because everyone has been wearing them in the army for three years’ I have not been in the army so I can accept this color, but if I Yes, I probably never want to see it.’

For the 2022 Spring/Summer series, Hed Mayner went to shoot Lookbooks in a desolate waste area outside Paris. In fact, looking at the brand catalogues over the years, they can all be called styling textbooks, and the stacking skills output in them are not inferior to many popular brands. , worthy of your inspiration for everyday clothing.

27 sets of Looks further expand Mayner’s concept map. Based on the sculptural and spacious shape, he added a lot of invisible pockets to transform clothing into practical storage space to make it feel like home. Stiff and durable canvas has naturally become the main fabric. Unlike other designers who focus on grand narratives, Mayner has always tended to make clothes purely, and this season’s expression is only a simple vision for people to travel without restrictions.

Paris Fashion Week, which ended just three months ago, is another highlight of Hed Mayner’s career.

For the Spring/Summer 2023 runway, models in cut-out dropped-shoulder shirts and pocket cargo trousers were the first to step onto the stage, reflecting the homely comfort that runs through the collection, for which Mayner deliberately sourced vintage linens from Paris and Tel Aviv flea markets, Old spoons, turn them into quarter fabrics and drop earrings.

Under the reconstruction of the designer, the fixed styles such as suits, denim jackets, and air force jackets show magnificent silhouettes that are clearly recognizable, while focusing on single products such as parka coats and down jackets, the mixed stitching or bare white space on the back In stark contrast to the front, this is what he has been doing over the years‘Habit’– Place the sense of space on the wearer’s back.

After the show,Number Magaze with‘Extremegorgeous’describe the entire release,Fashion editor Joyce Li praised ‘A Lesson In Masterful Layering’。

Interestingly, Hed Mayner has never spent any money on brand marketing to this day, and the official Instagram of the brand only occasionally uploads show images. the meaning of the person.

In a conversation with fashion critic Shira Pur, he said ‘I focus on the design, making sure it’s pleasing to the consumer. This is where I put all my energy into it. Other than that, it’s all going with the flow and I’m not trying to convince anyone to wear anything’. It is also hoped that in the future, Hed Mayner, who is deeply involved in garment manufacturing, can truly enter the public consumption field.