The key points
- Marco De Vincenzo created the photographic book «Mondovisione» (Electa) with 50 rethought archive looks
- In February he will present the “Supèrno” project at the Milan fashion week
- The collection is made with garments already finished, dismembered and reassembled
A photographic book with 50 “forgotten” looks, created over the course of his 12-year career but never produced. And rethink it in a new key. But also the new “Supèrno” project that will be presented during the Milan Women’s Fashion Week in February. The 2022 of Marco De Vincenzo, born in Messina and Roman by adoption, born in 1978, begins with projects. And independence: at the end of 2020, in fact, the LVMH group (which in 2014 had a 45% stake) and the manufacturer Cieffe Group left the property and the designer returned to the ownership of his own brand at 100%.
50 “discarded” looks in one book
The first project launched this year is «Mondovisione» (Electa), a photographic book that tells about the clothes that, since the foundation of his brand, De Vincenzo has created but have never seen the light of day. And now, rethought and “re-matched”, they tell a piece of his story: “When I got back into possession of my archive, which has over 6,000 pieces, – he says – I realized how many items had been” discarded “during the years. After all, creating a collection means making choices: at the time I had preferred others that perhaps seemed closer to the needs of the show ».
From the analysis to the creative project, the step was short: “I started playing with these creations, mixing garments from different seasons: new looks came out that deserved an equally new visibility”. And here is the book: “It is a gift I gave myself to mark the end of an important cycle: however, it is not a summary of my work, but the expression of a different side of my creativity,” he says.
The experience with Lvmh between visibility and expectations
The closing of a cycle, as De Vincenzo calls it, coincides with the new course of the brand which for six years – from 2014 to 2020 – had the largest luxury group in the world as a significant partner. «Lvmh came at a time when I, after years of activity as an independent designer (the brand was founded in 2009, ed), was about to give up. Since I signed the partnership, the spotlight has inevitably been on me, but expectations often clashed with reality: having a big partner doesn’t mean turning into a great brand “.
In concrete terms, De Vincenzo says, «I was no longer considered an emerging one. Everyone expected me to have unlimited budgets, but instead I didn’t have the means of a big brand ». The participation of LVMH gave the brand “certainly enormous visibility, but at a certain point we thought it was better to separate our paths, in a serene way”, says De Vincenzo (who remains Leather goods head designer at Fendi, a brand of the group by Arnault).