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The intense green of the trees testifies to the proximity of the Tiber, which flows a short distance from the entrance to the Prada knitwear factory in Torgiano, about 8 km south of Perugia, a 9 thousand m2 structure immersed in 15 thousand m2 of parkland. A surface area that has almost tripled, with two interventions, since 2001, the year in which the Milanese group took over the headquarters of the Mas knitwear factory. Vil., to support the growth of a category that CEO Andrea Guerra, on the occasion of the inauguration of the manufacturing expansion, defined as “extraordinary”.
From the 39 employees of almost 25 years ago, today in the Prada knitwear factory producing clothing, as elements that will enrich footwear and accessories, there are 214 people, 72% women and 16% under 35. Between 2019 and 2022 the group has invested 210 million to expand and make its factories more efficient, now 26 in the world, of which 23 in Italy, which employ over 3,500 people of its almost 15 thousand in total: «For industrial development in 2024 we have allocated another 60 million, excluding acquisitions, which remain an important element – Guerra noted –. Italy is our reference center and we think that being able to give generational stability to many of these SMEs is part of our entrepreneurial role and also our responsibility. We do not rule out other acquisitions here in Umbria.” Over the last three years, in fact, the Prada group has strengthened its supply chain by acquiring shares in excellent manufacturing companies such as Filati Biagioli Modesto (together with the Zegna group), Superior Spa and, again with the Zegna group, Luigi Fedeli and Figlio, specialized in the production of knitwear.
The historic Umbrian knitwear district therefore continues to prosper, even if the luxury industry has to deal with the issue of attracting talent. In the three areas of the factory, hands and machines work together: some, although dating back to the 1950s, are still necessary to carry out the processes that embellish the majority of the 1,500 garments produced daily in Torgiano, where 65 people were hired in 2023, with others 30 coming this year. Learning how to perfectly carry out production phases such as linking can take up to 5 years. «We need to work on communication to make people perceive the attractiveness of these professions – underlined Lorenzo Bertelli, marketing and Corporate Social Responsibility manager of the group founded by the parents –. With the Prada Group Academy (an internal training project born in the early 2000s, editor’s note) we want to connect generations and encourage the transfer of knowledge.” When asked if the demographic decline could have negative repercussions on the availability of talent, CEO Guerra replied: «I’m not worried, talent will always be there. And the contribution of migrants is crucial”
The 2024 industrial strategy includes, among other things, the opening of a new site for tailoring in Senigallia (also in this case recovering a disused industrial building, that of the former Ciare loudspeaker factory) and one in Piancastagnaio ( Siena) dedicated to leather goods, a sector which, however, according to Confindustria Moda in the first quarter of the year recorded a significant increase in requests for layoffs: «We are not worried, on the contrary, perhaps we will accelerate – explained Guerra –, not only for the increase in demand for our products, but also due to the greater availability of human resources resulting from this situation. Leather goods in general are experiencing a new normality after the boom of recent years.”
After 2023 with net revenues of 4.7 billion (+17% compared to 2022), the Prada group closed the first quarter of 2024 with net revenues of 1.187 billion, +16% compared to the same period last year, also thanks to the success of Miu Miu (+89%) and double-digit growth in almost all markets (the Americas recorded +5%) and with peaks of +46% in Japan.