He barely saw them up there, on that slope, tucked into that perfect postcard, among the grasslands that made the sun’s rays shine through the clouds, with that deep green that contrasted with the blue lake and the snowy peaks above the end. With the summer behind him, Nahuel looked for the most attractive nearby position without scaring them away, got off the bike quickly, took the camera out of his bag without making a fuss, took position and shot. Click. Click. Click. The guanacos, As if they knew, they did not flinch, they did not move, they remained firm in their paradise in Patagonia. Nahuel and Lucía They already had another unforgettable postcard: they knew that it had earned its place in their collection album, the one they build every day, the one that records step by step their adventure since they left Montevideo to tour the Argentina from North to South, along route 40, deviating every time a destiny tempted them. Thus, for example, they united in 354 kilometers the craft brewery circuit of San martin de los andes with that of El Bolsón and its hop plantations through alternative paths since they left national route 237 in Villa Llanquin.
For Lucía Pirez (27), a recently graduated notary and lawyer, it is syour first bike trip. For Nahuel Martínez (26), psychology student, the first long one after several short ones on the charrúa routes. They are both Uruguayans and they saved for several years to live the pedal trip that they originally imagined. La Quiaca to Ushuaia along the mythical 40. But the path is not always linear: they crossed the border to visit the famous Carretera Austral.
Guanacos that die hooked on barbed wire
The image could not contrast more with what they had seen kilometers before along Route 41, which saddened them with every meter they advanced: the remains of dozens of guanacos who met an agonizing and cruel death, hooked on the barbed wires that delimit the fields on the highest line
It must be jumped by the guanacos who seek to continue their path and do not understand private property neither competition for grass nor water with the sheep of the ranchers, who argue that these increasingly numerous groups of untamed animals are a threat to their production. It is not enough with the puma, its natural predator. Others propose locking them up, producing guanaco meat and fiber, and exporting it. Lucía and Nahuel passed through the middle of this unfinished debate on their bicycles, frightened by the wires and the hanging helpless bodies. They chose not to take photos.
Photos: @ruedassobrepolvo
On the other hand, they did do it in the Perito Moreno National Park: there are no fences and the guanacos roam freely and are not as shy or hidden as in the previous section of Route 41. «In the reserve they give you the opportunity to get closer little more, but they still keep their distance,” says Nahuel.
«They are curious, they stare, but when you get closer they start running. You can see the male and his harem, single males that look at everything from above and make a territorial sound. When you get close, at a safe distance, they make that noise,” he adds.
The trip along route 41
In this exciting adventure, they entered Santa Cruz from Chile. They had crossed the border before to tour the famous Austral road. They returned to Argentina through a step where there are no computers: the gendarmes wrote down their entry in a notebook.
«The first population center we arrived at in Santa Cruz was Lago Posadas, a small town of 400 inhabitants. Our stop there was brief, a day to shop and a night to rest. We had 330 kilometers to go to the next town and 4 days of trekking through the Perito Moreno National Park, which meant packing at least 9 days of food,” they say.
«They had warned us that if we wanted to take Route 41 South (the shortest route), we should leave as soon as possible to avoid the strongest wind. At 04:00 am we were already up and ready to leave. By the time we realized it, we had already overcome the first obstacle, the snails of Lago Posadas (a drop of almost 1,000 meters in 12 kilometers). A viewpoint awaited us at the top, with panoramic views of Lake Pueyrredón, Lake Posadas and the incredible isthmus that separates them,” they continue.
The highest road in southern Patagonia
«Route 41 is known in Santa Cruz for being the highest road in southern Patagonia. The southern part is the least known, a route that does not even appear on the map, difficult to access but impressive. The route crosses two mountain passes (the highest at 1649 meters above sea level), being only passable from November to March.
The path is accompanied by the views of the imposing Cerro San Lorenzo 3,706m, the highest in Santa Cruz. Solitude is the only company that abounds throughout the entire journey. The proximity to the Perito Moreno National Park and the “The large amount of potential prey makes pumas abundant in these remote lands.”they point out.
In the Perito Moreno National Park
Among the plans was to arrive on time for the entry date that we had set in the Perito Moreno National Park. It was good to travel and get to know (Route 41 South) something that many of the locals do not do due to the steep and rocky terrain in some sections. The only traces that can be seen there are from some 4×4 vehicle that takes advantage of the geography of the terrain for a few hours of adrenaline and adventure,” they say.
Several days after the tour, asking for refuge in a remote road post on Route 40, We were lucky enough to meet Danilo, the Motor Grader who gave the last layout to the track. He told us that the route was designed with tourist plans for a small nearby area, with the idea of forming a town there (Tucu-Tucu). Some things remain pending and others are forgotten, Route 41 South has a Highway Order of no maintenance or authorization for vehicles, at least until further notice, “he says. They are experiences of just a short section of your adventure, one of those experienced only by those who dare to take the path. They tell it from the tent in El Calafate, about to cross back into Chile to see the Torres del Paine.
Useful information: bikes, food, equipment, map
* 29 wheelsets. These are the bikes that Nahuel and Lucía travel on. He had a break and it was cheaper to bring a new one from Uruguay than to fix it, so he chose the first option. In any case, he advises having basic notions to repair them because there are long stretches with no one nearby..
* Gasoline stove. It is small and cheaper than butane. The diet is based on pasta and rice. They also travel with nuts, cereal bars and practical canned goods (tuna, corn, peas).
* They carry the load distributed in bags 6 liters (forks) and 20 liters (handlebars). “You have to fit everything together like Tetris,” says Lucía and laughs. The backpacks go on the rack. They have been able to carry up to 27 liters of water. When they can and know they will consume soon, they buy vegetables and fruits. They brought a water filter that was key with the murky waters in the north of the country.
* – 16°C They are their sleeping bags.
* The number of km depends on the plan of each day and the surface where they roll. On average: 100 km per day if it is asphalt, between 60 and 70 on gravel, 30 if you have to get off and push.
* They downloaded everything Information about the Beer Trail here: https://bikepacking.com/routes/patagonia-beer-trail-argentina/
* You can follow the adventures of Nahuel and Lucía at https://www.instagram.com/ruedassobrepolvo/