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SRINAGAR, KASHMIR (INDIA) – I meet K. in a pastry shop along the Jhelum river, where 300 people drowned during a flood a few years ago. K. also overflows, but with words. He needs to tell someone who isn’t from here. He is forbidden to fly out of Kashmir and in the conversation one perceives the urgency of passing on another message in addition to that of a cleaned up Srinagar, of the smart city promised by the government of Hindu nationalists who are occupying many neighborhoods by military force except the one where he leads me, between alleys dark and narrow that open up into bright little squares full of shops and craftsmen.