Traffic on the streets of New York during Fashion Week was the first sign of a return to pre-pandemic normality, with five days packed with live shows and events.
In addition to brands such as Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Tory Burch and Tommy Hilfiger, the calendar of this edition was enriched by two Italian fashion houses, Fendi, with a great celebration of the 25th anniversary of its Baguette and Marni bag icon, with a presentation of the his spring / summer collection.
Marni
For its first fashion show outside Italy, Marni chose a cavernous space under an arch of the Manhattan Brige in Dumbo, Brooklyn where, at dusk, fashionistas and celebrities such as Doja Cat and Madonna flocked to wear vintage pieces from the brand of worship. In the foggy and evocative atmosphere where the thunder was periodically heard in the subway, the delicate and luminous men’s and women’s collections of the designer Francesco Risso, inspired by the colors of sunrise and sunset and the works of Flaminia Veronesi: tight-fitting dresses with prints kaleidoscopic shades of red, yellow and orange, complete with micro tank tops and stretch skirts connected to long mermaid-effect glove sleeves and a multitude of crochet tops paired with wide trousers and flared denim. The series of gender fluid looks definitely dedicated to young generations followed one another on the notes of the music of Dev Hynes, played by a live orchestra that included Risso himself on the cello.
Michael Kors
From Anne Hathaway to Serena Williams, there was no shortage of front row celebrities even from Michael Kors, who created an urban jungle in the heart of the Meatpacking District to present his new spring-summer collection.
Serena Williams, Anna Wintour, Anne Hathaway and New York Mayor Eric Leroy Adams
In an industrial space decorated with voluminous exotic plants, Kors has proposed a versatile wardrobe to wear on holidays as in the city inspired by the décontracté and chic look of icons such as Bianca Jagger. A mix of caftans and sarongs are paired with tailored jackets and coats, while the cashmere sweater takes on new shapes, becoming an accessory to simply tie at the waist or carry on the shoulders. Women with fringes and soft fabrics enhance the movement, while instead of jewels, Kors suggests studs and sculptural brass collars to give a glamorous touch to garments in neutral colors such as white, black and beige with some red and green accents acid.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch’s collection, which showed on a dock on the Hudson River at sunset, has a soft and feminine silhouette and is made up of easily interchangeable pieces and often worn in layers. Long-sleeved t-shirts that reveal lace bras are worn on leggings or long fluffy skirts and a jersey bandeau curled around the waist that delicately enhances the shapes, creating soft blocks of color. In contrast, elegant looks take on more defined shapes, from tunics to wool blazers to rigid gazar silk shirts. The watchword is comfort also for shoes, among the most popular accessories of the brand, which for the new season are ballet flats open on the heel and flat sandals with the popular logo.
Tommy Hilfiger
If Tory Burch’s show was on a perfect summer evening, with a nice breeze and a lovely sunset, Tommy Hilfiger can’t be said to have had the same luck. A persistent rain created some inconvenience at the colossal event inspired by the Andy Warhol Factory organized on the shores of Brooklyn, where guests, after a look backstage behind the scenes, were headed to the open stands with, alas, a cloudy view on the Manhattan skyline. The show must go on, and among the guests wearing plastic ponchos and umbrellas, the See Now Buy Now collection paraded clothing with a preppy style with the new logo created with the illustrator Fergus Purcell, the new capsule collection in collaboration with Richard Quinn with floral prints and tartan dresses, and sweaters, scarves and oversized dresses with American college iconography.
Tom Ford
Party finale at Tom Ford, in a tribute to past eras, from the evenings at Studio 54, to the cheeky opulence of the style of the 80s, to his iconic collections for Gucci of the 90s. The Ford woman is aggressive and sensual. She wears metallic blazers and shorts with exposed bra, undergarments under a simple black leather jacket and boots, wraparound lurex dresses, hot pants and unbuttoned silk shirts embroidered with Texan-style floral motifs. Her sporty look also evokes glamor, with a shimmering lavender jumpsuit. A perfect ending for a week that brought luster back to New York fashion week, where the desire to regain the carefree and optimism of the past, without inhibitions, and without a mask.
