Tunisia, on the Kerkennah Islands: where the smugglers have supplanted the fishermen. But there is also rebellion against the business of death

KERKENNAH ISLANDS (Tunisia) – On the horizon the sea, flat and milky, merges with the white clouds of the sky. Ahmed Taktak, 44, jumps on the boat and goes fishing. Here at Ouled Yanegon the coast of Chergui, the main island of Kerkennah, everyone knows him. For years he was one of the best “passeur”, the smugglers headed for Lampedusa, just over 160 kilometers offshore.