A new international coalition of organizations and associations is launching the campaign Make the Label Count asking the European Commission to guarantee on clothing transparent, complete and accurate sustainability labels.
The purpose of the sustainability label
The European Union is moving towards a climate-neutral and circular economy, in line with its Green Deal agenda, where products are designed not only to be more energy efficient, but also more durable, reusable, repairable and recyclable. “This transition is particularly important for the fashion and textile industry due to its significant environmental footprint,” reads the Make the Label Count appeal. To enable consumers to make greener purchasing decisions, the European Commission is offering consumers a mandatory labeling system for clothing and footwear.
Not just an environmental footprint
The European Commission’s method of assessing the environmental impact of clothing has been called the Product Environmental Footprint (Pef). However, the Make the Label Count coalition points out that the methodology is incomplete and without a correct correction it risks misleading well-meaning consumers. “The European Commission started Pef in 2013. Since then, we have seen important improvements in research and knowledge of the environmental impacts of the textile industry, but these are not included in the current methodology – explains Dalena White, co-spokesperson for Make the Label Count and Secretary General of the International Wool Textile Organization (Iwto) -. If the Commission proceeds to impose labeling without addressing these limitations, the fashion and textile industry will not achieve the green transition that the European Union wants to see. ‘
How to improve the hypothesis put forward by Brussels
«We want consumers to have full visibility of the sustainability of a product and, in its current form, Pef does not. We need reliable information on whether clothes are made from renewable and biodegradable materials, if they are reusable and recyclable and if they throw microplastics into our ecosystems that pollute food chains – adds Dalena White -. Only then will we be able to obtain a sustainability label for clothing that provides consumers with credible information that substantiates ecological claims by preventing greenwashing. “
Suggestions for improvement
The Make the Label Count coalition asks the European Commission to adopt a methodology that reflects the objectives of the action plan for the circular economy and the objectives of the Green Deal. The coalition is advancing a goal-setting approach with its technical experts keen to work with Union policymakers on solutions that push the boundaries of the Pef. As Livia Firth, co-spokesperson for Make the Label Count and creative director of Eco-Age explained: «For years we have been pushing for better labeling on fashion items. Our industry has an unacceptable impact on our planet and consumers don’t want to be complicit.We are ready to contribute to the development of a clear and credible label reflecting the latest science on the ground to empower millions of consumers in Europe and beyond. When people make informed choices, they make better choices – concludes Livia Firth -. This in turn will encourage brands to create products with the lowest possible environmental impact ».