The turning point came after almost twenty years. Two decades in which the supply chain of the fashion district of Carpi has been almost totally dominated by Chinese laboratories, which have replaced the figure of the knitter, capable in front of the machine, of making the product starting from the yarn. With the pandemic and the drastic reduction of Chinese labor, returning to the country of origin, a void had been created, in the absence of technical professionals capable of juggling the various production phases, from yarn to knitted knitting. “We have come to the point of stealing these profiles from us, to the sound of pay increases,” admits Gian Luca Sacchetti, general manager of knitwear production, one of the more than 700 companies that make up the historic Emilian district.
One hundred hours for 40 students
That void is now filled by the new knitwear course – a total of 100 hours – promoted by Carpi Fashion System in collaboration with the Vallauri professional institute and with 20 local companies. Aimed at 40 fifth-year students, it aims to pass on the technical skills necessary to bring the traditional core business back to the center of production. «We already have training courses to become stylists or product managers – explains Stefania Gasparini, Deputy Mayor of Carpi (the Municipality has played a fundamental role of connection) -. What was missing was a school to develop manual skills, to train manpower linked to the production process ».
A heritage that had been dispersed, without the transmission to new generations of the old knitter’s art that was spot-removing in the garage of the house. An almost legendary figure in this cluster that over the decades has conquered the knitwear capital in the field. And which is increasingly sought after by companies, especially now that, in increasing numbers, they are relocating to a medium-high market segment. Range that requires maximum attention to quality and attention to detail.
Public-private collaboration
It all started from the close cooperation between the professional institute, the companies – including big names like Twin Set and Liu.Jo – and the municipal institution. The strong integration with the productive world is guaranteed by the same entrepreneurs who support the teachers during the lessons. Just like Federico Poletti, one of the three founders of Staff Jersey, specialized in the production of knitted fabrics. «We needed to train a technical figure with the knowledge of the machine, who knows what it can do, how to use the yarns, what types of products can be made – says Poletti -. Because this is the beating heart of our territory, the one that made it internationally famous ». After all, as explained by Gloria Trevisani, sole director of Crea Sì, which produces paper patterns, prototypes and garments for fashion shows for various brands, “many brands that had turned to clothing are reviving knitwear. But we need to train young people, the most experienced workers are retiring ». The course, organized by ForModena, is strongly oriented towards operations. He alternates theoretical lessons with others of a practical nature, with the illustration of the typology of the various yarns and the development of the samples, the structure and development of the knit, the basic stitches, the finishes and the dot.