It may certainly seem paradoxical to discuss fashion at a difficult time again, but ignoring the real weight of this industry, and even more its symbolic value, would be a huge mistake.
Fashion is metamorphosis, transformation, interpretation. It offers the possibility of imagining other scenarios, of escaping; it reassures, electrifies, fluidizes sociality. “Get dressed, let’s go out!”: An exhortation that we missed a lot in the two years of distancing. Going out, of course, not to go shopping, but to go to the club dressing up, opening the tail like peacocks.
So it is not surprising the disco glitter that pervades the Milan fashion shows these days: a swirl of sequins and glitter, and in general sensational looks. «The club is the place where people dress to mate, like animals in the summer. It is a territory of experimentation »says Alessandro Michele, who with Gucci returns to parade in the city after two years of experiments, filmic and otherwise. Inside a box of distorting mirrors, under strobe lights and on synthetic notes of 80’s hits, the magnificent iridescence of the Gucci code is reiterated once again, mobile like mercury in its absolute immobility, always prone to crossover, hybrid, corruption , to the spurious that is progress. This time it is the three Adidas stripes slapped everywhere, from the men’s suit to the black velvet bustier, that catch the eye, evolving a known symbol within an unknown territory, and letting who knows what originates from this germ. On the sidelines, an unexpected rigor is also affirmed, androgynous instead of genderless, a harbinger of a further twist.
Candy colors and plasticky shimmers give the horror fantasy of GCDS a joyful and liberating semblance, while giving Missoni you shine a lot and you get upset a lot, after the long denied contact. There is also a great desire to use your hands to appreciate the warmth of the handmade. It’s all tactile, in this regard, from Etrowhere Veronica Etro looks at a known repertoire with fresh eyes, and renews, if not in an epochal way, certainly bringing a raw spontaneity and the immediacy of wearing a sweater.
The body is the object of rediscovery, magnified by dresses that widen the shoulders, mark the waist, let the legs gleam from high slits. From Sportmax it is a counterpoint of rigor and boldness.