The incredible Azul River rises in the Andes Mountains and is the beautiful common thread of the El Bolsón Valley Shelter Network, the largest in South America. Photos: El Bolsón Trekking.
It is a full summer in the Shelter Network of The Baggins, the largest in South America. There, among mountains, forests and trails near the incredible Azul River that is born from meltwater in the Andes mountainsthousands of tourists enjoy the most beautiful trekking in Patagonia.
In the first 10 days of January 2024 they toured the shelter area 10,891 people between overnight stays and visits during the day, almost two thousand more than in the same period in 2023, which had already been very good, with the vast majority of visitors choosing to stay the night. That is the panorama provided by Sofía Seroff, director of Tourism of the city of the Andean Region, that El Bolsón is going through a summer with a very good level of occupancy, even though The breaks are shorter and many choose not to book and fight for the price upon arrival.
For those who enjoy contact with nature and also aim to lower costs, refuges are an excellent option. Are we going to tour them? Here, the information from our friends at El Bolsón Trekking, who know these wonders of the Andean Region in depth.
1- La Playita Shelter: the first in the El Bolsón shelter circuit
The La Playita Shelter is the first of the 8 shelters that are located on the coast of the Río Azul, starting from the Wharton access. The duration of the trek is between 2 and 3 hours, although it can vary greatly depending on each person’s previous experience.
The route is approximately 7 km and has moments of quite steep slopes, it can seem exhausting at times… but nothing rushes you, you are in the mountains… slowly you get there! In addition, this refuge is right in front of a beach with beautiful pools that will refresh you and you will enjoy a lot.
2- La Tronconada Refuge
After the La Playita shelter, just another half hour of trekking, you will find the La Tronconada Shelter, just continue along the same path upstream and you will find the detour that makes you cross a footbridge that crosses the Azul River . The shelter is just a few meters away, and has an entire camping area right next to the river.
3- El Cajón del Azul Shelter: the most visited of the El Bolsón shelters
Continuing along this route, the Cajón del Azul Shelter is located another half hour of trekking from the detour to La Tronconada. It is historically the most visited by travelers who venture into the El Bolsón refuge network.
Having to also cross the river on a walkway, a few meters to the right will take you to the gate of what was the first shelter that existed in the area, inhabited by Atilio since always.
It is from this refuge that you can visit the geographical phenomenon that allows you to observe the Blue River enclosed in rock walls 40 meters high.
4- El Retamal Refuge
The El Retamal Shelter is 1 hour trekking from El Cajón del Azul. The trail is quite pleasant, after a steep descent at the beginning of the trek, you will see the signs for the Cajon del Azul springs, we recommend you take a look before continuing, we cannot describe it in words.
The last section has a very steep slope that you may have to brake a few times to catch some air… nothing you can’t overcome! After a few minutes on the flat you will arrive at this beautiful refuge!
To walk near the refuge you can enjoy the walk of the painted stones and if you have more than one night to stay you can do some of the trekking to the El Lanto del Ángel waterfall, the Paredón de las Águilas and the Paso de los Vientos.
5- El Conde Refuge
El Conde Shelter is also 1 hour trekking from El Cajón del Azul. But at one point along the way, to get there you must cross a footbridge on the other side of the Blue River.
6- Casa de Campo Shelter in the Mountain
Just 15 minutes from El Conde is the Refugio Casa de Campo en la Montaña, a beautiful refuge that has private or shared rooms and a large camping area to welcome you. A family refuge where your welcome makes you feel at home!
From here there are several viewpoints to explore around the area, in addition the refuge offers horseback riding and guided excursions to Lago Esmeralda and the sources of the Rio Azul.
7- La Horqueta Shelter
The La Horqueta Shelter is 1 hour trekking from El Retamal. It is located at the confluence of the Azul and Rayado Rivers.
8- Los Laguitos Shelter: the last of the El Bolsón shelter circuit
The Los Laguitos Shelter is the last of this network of shelters in El Bolson that always advances following the Río Azul, located at 1100 meters above sea level. The trekking time is estimated to be approximately 6 hours, so the physical commitment is interesting… It has private and shared rooms and its camping area on the shores of Lake Lahuán is unique and unmissable!
If you have the possibility of spending two nights, after a few hours of trekking you can reach Cerro Año Nuevo and/or Lake Soberanía.
9- Cerro Lindo Shelter: one of the most demanding of the El Bolsón shelters
The Cerro Lindo Shelter is undoubtedly one of the most physically demanding: a 12 km ascending slope that takes you from 250 meters above sea level to 1500 meters above sea level in about 6 hours, but it is completely worth the joy. Its bite begins at the Río Azul campsite, where you can leave your vehicle or make a base before setting off.
The first climb is well marked, so it is necessary to find the pace to not get discouraged: slow but constant. After crossing several streams and a lagoon, the road becomes a little friendlier. This refuge to enjoy at any time of the year (except in winter, it is under snow) gives you thousands of unforgettable postcards, in addition to its summit (2112 meters above sea level) or trekking to Laguna Lali which, if you want to know, you have to do at at least 2 nights in the shelter.
10- Refugio Motoco
The Motoco Refuge trek begins at the Río Azul walkway in the town of Lago Puelo-Chubut. Although in distance it is the furthest refuge, its slope is very little and this means that it only has two long steep slopes, both within the first two hours of trekking.
The road that goes 27km into the mountain range, being a very low part of it, gives you an amazing biodiversity product of the ecotone between the Valdivian Forest of Chile and the Patagonian Forests of Argentina. One of the most beautiful journeys to be made with time, since it is estimated that it will take about 6 hours to reach the refuge.
From the refuge you can do different treks, such as the Alerzal Milenario or the Roca del Tiempo, which will leave you speechless, so we recommend going up while having the possibility of staying at least two nights in the place!
11- Piltriquitrón Refuge: the only one of the El Bolsón refuges with a view of the Valley
The Piltriquitrón Refuge is located in another mountain range, precisely from this you can see the entire El Bolsón Valley and the foothills in front. It is the easiest to access, from Route 40 you can reach “La Plataforma” by car (10 kilometers of gravel, last place of access by vehicle).
From this place it is a trek that covers only 2 kilometers (very steep) with a duration of approximately 1 hour, depending on your pace and the weight you carry. The first 20 minutes are quite steep, but don’t get discouraged, you can brake as many times as you want!
The Carved Forest is 15 minutes before reaching the refuge, a walk through wonderful sculptures made with trees from an old fire. Whether you decide to stop in the forest or not, continue to the shelter even if you are tired, don’t give up! It’s really worth the joy…
Some choose to go up and down during the day, and others… venture to spend the night “hanging in the clouds” as their name is translated from Tehuelche. Trekking lovers do not go down without visiting the summit, which is located at 2250 meters above sea level, from where you can see almost the entire region in a 360º view that few hills offer you.
12- White Charm Shelter
To access the trail that takes you to the Refugio Encanto Blanco shelter, you have to continue a little beyond Wharton along the path that goes to Perito Moreno Hill, until you reach the Tillería family farm.
Once you cross the gate, the trekking begins, which is estimated to take about 3 to 4 hours to arrive. If you have recently been venturing into the mountains, this refuge offers you a very friendly trekking, 12 km of route with forests and streams that rise to barely 850 meters above sea level.
13- Blue Ice Shelter
The Hielo Azul Shelter has two different possible accesses. Whether you start from Camping Doña Rosa, or from Wharton, the trek to this refuge has its share of physical demands. Trekking is estimated to take between 5 and 7 hours, covering a total of 16 km, so we recommend leaving early and as light as possible. The only thing we can do is assure you that when you arrive at this place, you will not regret it.
Near this refuge passes a stream with meltwater from the Hielo Azul Glacier, a place that has a viewpoint where you can trek to and from during the day.
14- Swimming Lake Refuge
The Lago Natación Refuge is located one hour from the Hielo Azul refuge, it has the same access possibilities, so the recommendations are the same: the trekking is demanding, lots of water and a light backpack!
Without a doubt the biggest attraction of this place is the Lake next to which this refuge is located, an area that is used for camping and gives you unforgettable sunrises and sunsets.
15- Dedo Gordo Shelter
The beginning of the trek to Refugio Dedo Dordo is in Wharton, like many of the shelters we share. The first section to walk is until the descent to “The confluence” of the Blanco and Azul rivers. And this is where, after crossing the Blanco River footbridge, you should take to the right.
At the beginning you pass through an area of farms and then the trekking becomes somewhat demanding, especially because of its steep sections, but it is estimated that it will take around 5 hours to get there, traveling 7km in total, which allows you, if you go out With time, stop as many times as you want and enjoy the landscape, the sounds and the air of the place.
How much do the El Bolsón mountain huts cost?
The prices for camping range from 6000 to 8000 per person and overnight stay from 15,000 to 18,000 pesos per person. To learn more about the services, costs and directions to get to the El Bolsón shelters, you can click on the link for each one.
More information: El Bolsón Trekking