New logo, new style and new designer at the helm of the most iconic brand in British culture: Burberry has changed direction and presented it last night on the catwalk with Daniel Lee at London Fashion Week. Back from the success of Bottega Veneta, the designer from Bradford who graduated from Central Saint Martins enters the scene after four years of the maison under Riccardo Tisci. An announced success, even if for five months (Lee was selected in September 2022) the fashion world has been waiting for the results.
The signs that the course had definitely changed appeared on social platforms as early as the beginning of February, when the brand unveiled the new logo: farewell to the modern sans-serif created for Tisci by Peter Saville; the new one is a traditional-inspired serif, with references to the house’s archive. And with the new font, the timeless knight who rides carrying the “Prorsum” emblem, from the Latin “forward” in royal blue, is back. Then some images of the campaign appeared with celebrities portrayed by the English photographer Tyron Lebon: Vanessa Redgrave against the background of Trafalgar Square, the English rapper Skepta and the Chelsea player Sterling.
As expected, we found (almost) all of them gathered yesterday evening under the marquee set up for the occasion (and designed by Lee himself) in the middle of Kennington park, in Oval, south of the capital, an unexpected but decidedly suitable destination for the new management more unpredictable, less classic. To welcome the guests there were hot chocolate (corrected with whiskey for the most extreme) and blankets with the typical check of the brand, in wool, with hot water bottles as placeholders placed to warm those who suffer from the cold. An elegant but very welcoming Burberry camping atmosphere. The marquee brought together collaborators and admirers of Lee from all parts of the creative industry: Anna Wintour, Edward Enninful, Naomi Campbell, Jason Statham, Juergen Teller, Baz Luhrmann, Wayne McGregor and even our very own Roberto Bolle in the front rows cheering . That Lee had already settled into the London creative scene could be foreseen from the invitation to the show, on the style of the tent and the cozy atmosphere: a vocal note by the Hackney artist John Glacier entitled “I’ll keep you warm” , literally “I’ll keep you warm”.
But let’s get back to the collection, where hot water boules appear as a must-have accessory for next autumn, carried under the arm by the models. Men and women dress functionally but impeccably elegant and above all contemporary: the cornerstones of the brand are all there, but they never appear classic and traditional. The trench becomes oversized and worn as a dress. Checked tartan appears in purple, yellow and red on knitwear, trousers and kilt skirts. Do not miss the beige, the color of the maison, seen on coats and suits, but it mixes perfectly with the other colors, one of all the royal blue of the already mentioned Prorsum logo, which appears giant on a long unstructured dress. Like a declaration of love to England, which can also be read through the rose, its symbol, printed on t-shirts and used on jackets and trousers to create almost psychedelic patterns. Extra accessories: a maxi faux fur hat on the head, which recalls the one attached to shoes and bags with hints of the animal world of the English woods. Rubber rain boots for a muddy festival alternate with other equestrian styles and sandals with woven buckles. There are also two evening dresses in colored feathers that recall a curtain of camouflage leaves. The outdoors is where Daniel Lee starts from, taking up the origins and foundations of the brand.
Backstage, the designer declared that he wanted to celebrate the best of English culture, that mix of creativity and personality that only London can offer and which the designer missed a lot in the past. And Vivienne Westwood is among the many quotes a sure source of inspiration. In summary, goodbye to classic tailoring and make way for Lee’s new colorful direction, who, like the knight of the brand, takes Burberry “forward” to a new challenge.