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HATAY – The flames burn the containers of the great port of Iskendenur, a column of black smoke hangs over the city overlooking the Mediterranean. The earthquake gutted one of Turkey’s most important seaports, which fuels the country’s heavy industry – steel cargo, cement – now it’s out of action. But it is only the beginning of a ghostly descent, because beyond the Nur mountains and the snowy pass of Belen, the plain of Hatay opens up: the catastrophe.