Who doesn’t know Charles Darwin? The eminent British naturalist was a respected figure of the 19th century, so much so that he gave his name to Darwinism. But what few people know is that Charles Darwin already visited Mauritius!
The HMS Beagle. Photo: Wikicommons.
April 29, 1836. Charles Darwin lands in the north of Mauritius, which he also calls Isle de France. He will stay there until May 6 or 9 of the same year, a stay of about a week. The details of Darwin’s visit to Mauritius have come down to us thanks to his famous book The Voyage of the Beagle.
The Voyage of the Beagle was published in 1839. Darwin tells us, in the form of a travelogue, of the trip around the world that he made between 1831 and 1836 aboard a Royal Navy ship: the HMS Beagle. THE beagle is a breed of dog native to England. It is among the canines with the most developed sense of smell. Beagles are therefore used as detection dogs or sniffer dogs. What a happy coincidence that the ship on which Darwin traveled was so named!
The beagle is one of the canines with the most developed sense of smell. Photo: Negative Space.
In perfect syllogism with the fine nose of a beagle, the journey aboard the HMS Beagle allows Darwin to explore the planet. He makes numerous stops and observes the inhabitants, reliefs, environment, nature, fauna and flora of several countries. The stopover in Mauritius takes place in April and May, after a stopover in the Cocos Islands, also called the Keeling Islands.
Perfect elegance
A true travelogue, Darwin wrote a logbook of the few days he spent in Mauritius. Here are his first impressions:
“April 29. – In the morning we went around the northern end of Mauritius, or Isle de France. From this point of view, the appearance of the island lived up to the expectations aroused by the many well-known descriptions of its magnificent landscapes. The sloping plain of Pamplemousses, dotted with houses and colored by the large fields of bright green sugar cane, made up the foreground (…). Towards the center of the island, groups of wooded mountains rose from this very cultivated plain; their summits, as often happens with ancient volcanic rocks, are jagged to the sharpest points. Masses of white clouds were gathered around these peaks, as if to please the stranger’s eye. The entire island, with its sloping border and central mountains, was adorned with an air of perfect elegance (…). »
Under the spell, Darwin takes advantage of his first day in Mauritius to walk around Port-Louis. This was, at the time, the only town in the colony. “The city is of considerable size and is said to have 20,000 inhabitants; the streets are very clean and regular. Although the island has been under English government for so many years, the general character of the place is entirely French: the English speak to their servants in French, and the shops are all French; (…) There is a very pretty little theater in which the operas are excellently performed (…). The different races of men walking in the streets offer the most interesting spectacle in Port Louis. »
A street in Port-Louis, as Darwin might have seen it. Photo: Wellcome Collection. CC.
I climb the Thumb
Darwin continues his stay with a trip to the north of the country. He is somewhat disillusioned, and believes that Mauritius is less beautiful than… Tahiti! Yes, yes. “The landscape can be described as being of an intermediate character between that of the Galapagos and that of Tahiti; but this will give a clear idea to very few people. It is a very pleasant country, but it has neither the charms of Tahiti nor the grandeur of Brazil. he compares. Just like the Mauritians of today, the explorer treats himself to a mountain hike. “The next day I climbed Le Pouce, a mountain so called because of a thumb-shaped projection, which rises behind the town to a height of 2,600 feet. The center of the island consists of a large platform surrounded by old broken basalt mountains, the strata of which plunge towards the sea.
Thanks to this ascent, Darwin made relevant observations on the geology of the island, as well as on the cultivation of sugar cane.
“From our elevated position we enjoy an excellent view of the island. The country on this side appears fairly well cultivated, being divided into fields and dotted with farms. However, I was assured that of the entire country, no more than half is still in a state of production; if so, given the current importance of sugar exports, this island, in the future when densely populated, will be of great value. Since England took possession only twenty-five years ago, sugar exports have increased seventy-five times. One of the main causes of its prosperity is the excellent condition of the roads. » Darwin doesn’t think he says it so well! The production and export of sugar subsequently became the economic mainstay of Mauritius in the 20th century.
5 star host
In addition to his work as an explorer and scientist, Darwin also tells us about his “vacations”. And who says vacation, necessarily says lodging! Like a sort of Tripadvisor or Airbnb before its time, Darwin explains that he spent two nights with a 5-star host! This is Captain John Augustus Lloyd, a British engineer known worldwide for his preliminary work for the construction of the Panama Canal.
« In the evening Captain Lloyd, Surveyor General, so well known for his examination of the Isthmus of Panama, invited Mr. Stokes and myself to his country house, which is situated on the boundary of the plains of Wilhem, and about six hours miles from the port. We stayed at this lovely place for two days; at nearly 800 feet above the sea the air was fresh, and on either side there were delightful walks. Nearby, a large ravine was carved to a depth of about 500 feet from gently sloping streams of lava that flowed from the central platform. » Captain Lloyd’s residence still stands today. After numerous purchases, sales and bequests, it now belongs to the Diocese of Port-Louis. This house today bears the name Tabor.
The only elephant on the island
It is clear that Captain Lloyd succeeded in reconciling Darwin with the Mauritian landscapes. Indeed, with walks in Rivière-Noire, the charm operates again!
“Captain Lloyd took us to the Black River (…), so that I can examine some high coral rocks. We passed through pleasant gardens and beautiful fields of sugar cane growing among immense blocks of lava. The roads were lined with mimosa hedges, and near many houses there were avenues of mango trees. Some of the views, where the peaking hills and cultivated farms were seen together, were extremely picturesque; and we were constantly tempted to exclaim: “How pleasant it would be to spend one’s life in such peaceful abodes! “. Captain Lloyd owned an elephant, and he sent him half-way with us, that we might enjoy a ride in the Indian manner. (…). This elephant is the only one currently on the island; but we say that we will bring others”, Darwin wrote.
Charles Darwin. Photo: Wikicommons.
It is on this note that Charles Darwin closes the Mauritian chapter: “We left Port-Louis, and, stopping at the Cape of Good Hope, on July 8, we arrived off the coast of Saint Helena. This island, whose sinister appearance has been so often described, rises suddenly like an immense black castle on the ocean. » From Mauritius to Saint Helena, Darwin continues with another meeting in his history: walking in the last steps of Napoleon!