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Alec Leach on sustainable consumption: “Only buy what you really love!”

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Alec Leach on sustainable consumption: “Only buy what you really love!”

VA few years ago, Alec Leach could be seen at every men’s fashion show worth his name. He worked as a fashion critic for the online platform “High Snobiety” and, like hundreds of colleagues, traveled regularly to Milan, Paris and London. Then he switched sides, although he doesn’t like to call it that himself, and delved into the less edifying aspect of the industry: its enormous consumption of resources. He has written a highly entertaining and knowledgeable book about it, The World Is Burning and We Are Still Buying Shoes. Here he explains why that is.

ICONIST: You self-published your book. Nobody wanted to print it?

Alec Leach: I earn between six and ten times as much per copy sold as with a classic publisher. They actually work like banks: if the book flops, they took the risk and the author doesn’t have to pay anything back. I just have to make sure I have enough cash to reprint the book.

ICONIST: When you wrote the book, in early 2021, the world was in the midst of the pandemic. At the time, many important managers and creative minds in the fashion industry asserted that it would change completely – less decadent, but more sustainable. Has anything really changed?

Leach: No. The change should have happened and it still has to. Instead, I was amazed at the speed with which everything was back to normal.

When the industry questioned itself intensively

ICONIST: Why exactly did you switch sides, from fashion journalist to critic of the fashion industry?

Leach: I don’t feel like I’ve switched sides. I also didn’t wake up thinking I had to change the world. I resigned because I was underpaid and disrespected. I’m still working in the fashion industry, but now I’m giving my opinion. Like many other people, by the way.

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ICONIST: In your book you write about how people compensate for their insecurities and deficits with consumption. Did you feel the same way?

Leach: Absolutely. I was young, insecure and because of my job as a fashion editor so close to the trends, the clothes, the catwalks that I lost myself in this world. After I quit, I looked in my closet and didn’t see anything I really liked. And that after five years of thinking and writing about clothes. That was one of the reasons I wrote the book: asking why I wasted so much money and time on something that really means nothing to me.

So less hangs in the closet

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<p><strong>ICONIST: </strong>Did you sell everything after you left?</p>
<p><strong>Leach:</strong> I just sold an invitation to a Gucci fashion show for 100 euros.  It was an Asap Rocky record.  So I’m still decluttering.</p>
<p><strong>ICONIST: </strong>There are items of clothing that you don’t understand why you bought them.  You love others forever.  how come</p>
<p><strong>Leach:</strong> A lot of things were impulse buys.  I came to Paris and felt I had to treat myself.  Or I bought a pair of sweatpants because everyone wore them, even though I don’t like them and they don’t suit me.  And then there are all the red clothes in my closet that I never wear.</p>
<p><strong>ICONIST: </strong>But aren’t mistakes what makes fashion fun?</p>
<p><strong>Leach:</strong> Not when there are as many as mine.</p>
<p><strong>ICONIST: </strong> They then didn’t buy anything new for a whole year, so only second-hand clothes.  How was it?</p>
<p><strong>Leach:</strong> It took quite a bit of time.  I’m relatively tall, so it’s difficult to find what’s right and suitable.  You get a white shirt from Hugo Boss, but as soon as it gets something special, it gets tight.</p>
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ICONIST: Anyone who buys new clothes also buys a certain security. Is one’s own taste in fashion sharpened when one buys second-hand?

Leach: At least I understood that there are only certain things that interest me. GmbH, for example, is a great brand. But I don’t want to wear the things. Ditto Rick Owens or old Prada. Or sneakers.

ICONIST: What do you like anyway?

Leach: Old leather things, motorcycle jackets. Vintage t shirts. Cowboy boots and very well made loafers. I like the craft. I only buy the Swedish brand Our Legacy new.

The epitome of cool

Bespoke shoemakers Korbinian Ludwig Hess and Lena Winter

Cowboyboots maßgefertigt

ICONIST: Is fashion an addiction?

Leach: It can be her. Ten percent of Americans suffer from uncontrollable, impulsive consumerism. I think the Germans are a bit more reserved.

ICONIST: Is it realistic to expect the fashion industry to change on its own?

Leach: No. Even if it would do her good. It could sell more durable and better products.

ICONIST: This may be sustainable clothing, but it contradicts the basic idea of ​​fashion: it thrives on constant renewal.

Leach: We often fall into black and white thinking and expect consumers to solve all problems or brands. Instead, one is always related to the other. And then again it’s very simple. No certificate, no technology is as efficient as the strategy of buying less. This is the most important tip in my book to consumers. Brands, in turn, should finally start being honest. There is so much faking and lying. A capsule collection on Earth Day does nothing. Instead, the production and supply chain must be addressed. This is difficult and expensive.

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ICONIST: Who really changed what?

Leach: The Danish brand Ganni. They want to halve their carbon footprint by 2027. And they have committed their suppliers to work with renewable energy. I don’t know of any other brand that does this so transparently and consistently. No matter how big and rich a brand is, no one owns the entire supply chain. It’s much easier to put some solar roofs on the head office or set up some wind skirts.

In February, Copenhagen-based fashion label Ganni also presented a new bag made from leather alternative Ohoskin – a by-product of cactus and orange cultivation

In February, Copenhagen-based fashion label Ganni also presented a new bag made from leather alternative Ohoskin – a by-product of cactus and orange cultivation

Those: Ganni

ICONIST: What is your advice to the companies you advise?

Leach: nothing to hide That may still work today, but the more dramatic the consequences of climate change become, the more critical the fashion industry will be. There was also a time when the tobacco industry was attractive. People loved cigarettes until they didn’t anymore. It’s naïve to think that fashion can’t do the same.

ICONIST: A few years ago, when Burberry burned large amounts of leftover stock, there was a big outcry. What needs to change?

Leach: Companies need to be accountable for how their product is made – and what happens to it when it’s no longer needed.

ICONIST: You write a lot about sneakers. What’s so reprehensible about them?

Leach: They are a good example of the power of good marketing. And you can’t recycle them, just throw them away or burn them.

ICONIST: What’s your advice for people who don’t think so morally and want to have fun with fashion?

Leach: Only buy what you really love.

ICONIST: How do you know what to love?

Leach: To do that, you have to know who you are. And I’m not a down jacket, for example.

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