LEMAIRE 2023 Autumn Winter Show

The loose silhouette gives the garment a fluid look and can be fastened with ties, left open at the deep neckline or fastened with the button placket. The entire wardrobe is transformed between form and function: Workwear is remixed in different shades, pajamas become suits, double-breasted coats become cardigans, cardigans become coats, sleeveless puffer jackets become coats, knitwear become Fur, shoes became slippers. The autumn and winter series are between self-cultivation and looseness, between structured and unstructured, adding a sense of relaxation. The scarf tied around the neck, the quilted collar of the jacket, and the pleats at the hem of the dress demonstrate the fusion of new folk art and the interweaving of Eastern and Western cultures. And the sharp, urban silhouettes—oversized collars, coats, pockets, and bags—seem ready to take a trip for a while. LEMAIRE continues its collaboration with Indonesian artist NOVIADI ANGKASAPURA, known for his intricate and epic paintings, whose spiritual creations will be presented on silk garments.

Combinations of materials and thicknesses create beautiful contrasts: lightweight dresses are layered over heavy wool; flowy skirts are layered over chunky knits; silk fabrics flow from the hem of loose parkas to frame the silhouette ; Dry silk and Shetland wool, wool seersucker and silk and quilted cotton fabrics… From alpaca to merino wool, from printed silk jacquard to virgin wool, the tailoring and materials create a surprising touch. This is an autumn and winter full of bark and rocks, rain-soaked lichens and moss: baked pistachio green, soaked and stretched tea green, pale and transparent light green, mottled gray, and granite white washed by the river . The new collection uses a piece dyeing process that renders various fabrics in weathered shades of indigo and catalpa.

The two-color scarf bag is worn across the chest, and the feet are paired with ankle leather boots. The shape is like an urban archer. Handbags and small bags wrap around the body in the shape of a hunter’s satchel. Small and chic, this wool-lined bag features a double zip closure and a roomy camera strap, reminiscent of a vintage tote worn by a mysterious reporter from a certain era. And accessories such as laces and long ribbon earrings hanging naturally from the neck, swaying and elegant while walking, smart and natural.