Maison Margiela officially released the 2023 men’s and women’s collections at the end of Paris Fashion Week. John Galliano combined high-end fashion with ready-to-wear. What he wanted to tell was the story of the 50s to 80s.
Inspired by punk elements, the wool plaid pattern that the brand cooperated with Pendleton is applied to products such as shirts, cardigans and jumpsuits. At the same time, materials such as Silk Gazar, Lamé Brocade, color-changing cotton, neoprene, tulle, silk, Silk Organza, velvet, mesh, lace, Taffeta and other materials show John Galliano’s preference for luxury. However, a waffle top with a Mickey Mouse graphic is distressed at the hem and worn with a Pendleton wool plaid coat lined in the label’s signature tan cotton.
As learned from the great Dame Vivienne Westwood, punk doesn’t have to be total chaos. Instead, a semi-sheer skirt draped over mesh leggings was worn with a structured, stand-collared faded plaid top, followed by a canvas denim jacket with fringe and appliquéd trim at the collar and cuffs, and a hem that was also fringed. Covered in mesh leggings. A cream cardigan softened any hard edges, and piles of wool blossomed like flowers. Cutting with Maison Margiela’s signature unfinished look is actually a nod to haute couture design, what John Galliano has done is to apply historical codes, ancient fashion tropes and storylines, to things that are relevant in today’s world.