What are we talking about when talking about functional fashion and sexy at the same time? Dialogue with the cutting-edge brand Olly Shinder | Hypebeast

Olly Shinder makes sexy clothing, for those who are sexier.

Drawing inspiration from elements of outdoor gear, military uniforms, Techno Rave, performance apparel and sensuality, combined with a stint at Snickers Workwear, Olly Shinder’s designs look unimaginable for a 23-year-old the extent achieved. Although Shinder has a wealth of experience, he actually only graduated from Central Saint Martins in June 2022, but it is certain that his fashion journey has just begun.

Shinder’s work has been featured in trend names such as Dover Street Market, SSENSE, Très Bien and Machine-A in Paris and London. Most of his clothing series discuss the topic of “masculinity”, and his designs are far more than simple on the surface. When you look closely, there are more emotional details hidden under the functional appearance, such as the use of Delicate lace trim. This is Shinder’s armor of sophistication and self-expression that blurs gender, tailor-made for masculinity in a modern context.

In addition to bringing subversive sportswear, what deeper meaning does this young designer want to express? Hypebeast talked with Olly Shinder in the Showroom of Dover Street Market Paris. He talked about his experience in entering the industry, how he got to where he is today, and more importantly, what plans he has for the future.

Hypebeast: Why did you want to be a fashion designer?

Olly Shinder：I always knew I wanted to study fashion or art. Central Saint Martins seemed to be a very good choice, it is part fashion school, part art school, and the subject of “Fashion Design and Marketing” is relatively less commercial. This course is not gender-specific, it’s not purely menswear or womenswear, it’s just about fashion. I didn’t want to be locked into a frame, and I met fellow students there who thought the same way, and it turned out to be one of the most artistic classes around.

Menswear majors usually teach techniques such as tailoring. If you major in women’s clothing, you need to join a fashion house. Everything is pretty fluid at St. Maarten, which suits me, I hate being locked into blanket gender binary. I don’t like to define myself as a menswear designer, it always feels like that puts me a little lower in a hierarchy (usually womenswear is higher), but I don’t want to be just a womenswear designer either.

Hypebeast: What inspired you to start your own brand?

Olly Shinder：There are many different factors. First of all, I think the clothes I design deserve to be put on the shelves. I firmly believe that they are good enough to deserve to be produced, and I feel that I have to push this myself, which is why I am more interested in communicating with the press and buyers than socializing with brands, and these experiences have also become my confidence, let me try to understand how a brand works.

Hypebeast: How was the response to the first season?

Olly Shinder：The feedback has been good, people are happy with the timing of our releases and the quality of the pieces, which are two of the main priorities I was told as a new brand, and I have.

This also influenced the current new series. I actually don’t have much time to develop the new collection, even if it looks very different from the previous season, but in fact only made some small changes, no new styles and technologies. On the outside, though, everything is new, including new fabrics and colorways, but conceptually it doesn’t look too different from the previous collection.

Hypebeast: How do you personally feel about this?

Olly Shinder：I get a lot of good advice from my friends in the London design community. Because we all end up going through the same things, for example, when I was struggling with the production of clothes, a designer friend of mine told me, “Olly, you need to focus on the direction of the brand.” It was a beautiful moment.

Also, during shows like Junya Watanabe’s show, I can smell the perfume in the air…these details are important, all these little details are very inspiring. Also, seeing great work is very inspiring, whether it’s great art or stunning fashion design, or anything of a high standard, I find inspiration there.

Hypebeast: What is your vision?

Olly Shinder：It’s an ongoing thing and it’s still in progress. When I released my first collection, I didn’t realize it was going to be “my vision”. I didn’t think too much about it, but I also didn’t have much time to really polish it. That’s what I’m going to do in the next few series.

I’m still trying and experimenting and trying to push myself to build a foundation of self-knowledge, and I’m also interested to see what it turns out to be next quarter.

Hypebeast: Is there any message you want to pass on during the development of this series?

Olly Shinder：Honestly, I like that people call my clothes “Sexy Techwear”, I like the feeling that the clothes cover the body, this season’s jackets don’t show too much skin, I want to show people that showing skin is not the only way to be sexy, I want There was a genuine sense of sensuality in the design, which was so much more subtle that you could almost smell the sensuality coming from the clothes.

Hypebeast: Will these cutout designs continue in the next collection?

Olly Shinder：These cutout designs are meaningless and no one needs them.

Hypebeast: Then why do they exist?

Olly Shinder：Because they look good and look sexy!

Hypebeast: What were you thinking about when designing this collection?

Olly Shinder：A lot of things, like at first I was thinking how do I incorporate slightly different fabrics and new colors into the last collection? However, I don’t feel like that’s enough, so I’ve been pushing and trying different things.

Hypebeast: Are you strict with yourself?

Olly Shinder：I am very strict with myself. Sometimes, I even wish I wasn’t so strict. However, if I don’t have high demands on myself, I won’t achieve good results. It’s always nice to celebrate after finishing a collection, but I feel so peaceful right now.

Hypebeast: That’s good, so are you satisfied with this series?

Olly Shinder：Now I am satisfied. It usually takes a while because when you have just posted something, you haven’t fully digested it yourself, and you haven’t had time to absorb the feedback given by others, especially when posting online, you don’t know how people will react.

The night I launched the series online, I was alone in my bedroom, ordered takeout, and ate myself, but it wasn’t really a celebratory moment.

Hypebeast: Continue to discuss the details of this series. Do you have any favorite items?

Olly Shinder：No, because I think every single product is different. For me, every single product is a part of the whole, a balanced whole and part.

Hypebeast: This is almost a whole wardrobe of clothing…

Olly Shinder：This is what my teacher told me in school. Before we finished the final collection, they looked at all the pieces there and asked me, “What’s your favorite piece?” I said, “I love them all!”

But that’s the way it is. They’re trying to remix different pieces, each of which can be worn with anything, and I hope this collection is as versatile as that.

Hypebeast: Continuity and practicality of style are important factors for the success of the brand.

Olly Shinder：Yes, you can see that our pieces are very versatile and also suitable for everyday wear, for example, if I wear a shirt from last season, it will definitely go well with the trousers of the new season. I hope the next series will have continuity as well.

I think the foundation of a brand is to have basic staple items. Through these pieces, you can see what the brand is like, but I hope to make more wild designs in the future. I want to design some more conceptual and boundary-breaking clothing, so that the fashion and art side of the brand can be seen by everyone.

Hypebeast: What would you say to those who define your brand style as “Techwear”?

Olly Shinder：I’m not against this definition, but it’s not all my style. I prefer to use the term “Outerwear” rather than “Techwear”.

I look for inspiration in many military uniforms, both new and old, I also look for inspiration in the modern army and technology, I don’t think bringing elements of different industries into fashion is a detrimental thing to do, neither do I. Think there is any difference between an old military uniform and a contemporary military jacket. No offense intended.

Bringing those functional details, some elements and scenes that can reflect masculinity and strength, such as boys wearing such clothes are usually the type of active exercise and sweating, and bringing these factors and considerations here is also our design part of nature.

Hypebeast: Your costume designs are decidedly sexier…

Olly Shinder：You and I and some people may understand the intention behind this, but many times these designs are not only that. Some of the people who would wear this might simply think it’s a nice jacket. I feel like my design ultimately doesn’t want to emphasize the message, “This is a gay jacket.”

I don’t want to be packaged as a “gay brand” because I think all men can be sexy no matter who you are. All we want to do is make this person look sexy.

Hypebeast: So, are you trying to project confidence through your clothes?

Olly Shinder：I hope our clothes make you feel confident. I remember when I came to Paris in June 2022, I wore clothes from this collection and I felt very good. I had never worn my own clothes before that. I feel people’s stares, as if to say, “You look expensive, you look great.”

As my design language evolves, the message behind it becomes more profound. This is not something that can be achieved in just one or two series, it will take a lifetime to fully express. It will take me many years before people fully understand what I want to express. Some things cannot be expressed in words. These designs are the sum of my thoughts.

Hypebeast: Before that, you mentioned that your third series might be different?

Olly Shinder：Yes, while I’m saying it now, I think it’s too early to say with complete certainty, I’m excited for the new season in development, and it’s safe to assume I’ll be questioning and pushing myself out of my comfort zone.

Hypebeast: So you’re willing to take the risk, right?

Olly Shinder：I think the key to the whole branding process is to take risks. This is the only way you can move forward, and you can’t do things too conservatively. People can feel that this series is good, not only because I made some changes in the purple, blue and beige jackets, but also because of a lot of thought and modification, which took a lot of time and effort.

A friend of mine said that releasing a series is like releasing an album. You can see that a singer needs to go through a lot of hard work and failure experience to create those songs, and there may be many songs that have not been released.

Hypebeast: That did require a lot of revision and refinement…

Olly Shinder：Yes, while I’m saying it now, I think it’s too early to say with complete certainty, I’m excited for the new season in development, and it’s safe to assume I’ll be questioning and pushing myself out of my comfort zone.

Hypebeast: This will probably take a lot of…

Olly Shinder：Yes, and it took a lot of time and effort to get to that moment. I think that’s what clothing is about, something that I pour a lot of love into, something that’s the highest standard I can achieve.

Hypebeast: Does the series feel like an album to you?

Olly Shinder：I think this series is more like an EP, the more concise kind…

Hypebeast: So what stage do you think you are in now?

Olly Shinder：It is still early days and is being documented. These early works are actually important, and when I research designers I always try to find their earliest work. I’m interested in good work, but I always want to go to the source. In this internet age, everything is documented really well, but many designers, I can’t find their graduate work online.

Hypebeast: Like?

Olly Shinder：Phoebe Philo. I only saw some fragments of her graduation project online, not all of it. And I hope that people will be able to enter my name and time to search for information related to my brand for many years to come, as long as the brand’s development trajectory is smooth!

Hypebeast: Now that we’re on the topic of trajectory, what’s next for your brand?

Olly Shinder：I want to get more people involved. I’d love to have a fashion show, but it’s undoubtedly a very expensive thing to do. I hope more people can like and support our brand, our sales are really good at present.

Another one of my favorite designers is Raf Simons, who is funded by the Belgian government. Then he started working as the creative director of the brand and I watched those early Raf Simons shows and I was envious when I saw he had the budget to do great things, because a fashion show can lead to more exchange.

Hypebeast: Is this a short-term dream?

Olly Shinder：Yes, I would like to have a show where I would like to communicate the energy, the fun, the performance, the humor and the identity of the brand. Clothes are beautiful on the hanger, but I still hope that there is an opportunity to tell a story through the show, and I really want to tell this story.

In addition, I also hope to have the opportunity to carry out joint cooperation in footwear!