Climbing World Cup
Thanks to a splendid performance at the World Championships in Bern, Jakob Schubert made it into the final of the Olympic combined format. The lead climbing world champion, who was only in 18th place after the bouldering competition, reached the top on Wednesday evening as one of three athletes in the lead and catapulted himself up to fifth place. Jessica Pilz also made it into the final of the top eight in sixth place. Nicolai Uznik, on the other hand, had to give up in 18th place.
09.08.2023 23.25
Online since yesterday, 11:25 p.m
In contrast to Pilz, who was already on course for the final in seventh place in the bouldering competition, Schubert was unable to complete part one of the task as desired and was only in 18th place, one place behind Uznik. In his special discipline, the combined world champion 2018 turned up the heat in the evening and finished the route like the best of the day in both disciplines, the Japanese Sorato Anraku (184.9 points), with a top and a total of 144.8 points.
“It reminded me of Tokyo (Olympia 2021, note), where I said in front of the lead, it’s already over. With your back against the wall,” said Schubert, who had climbed from last place to bronze in the final. “In these situations I feel less pressure and can climb more freely. I had a great mindset, the route looked great, and I immediately got into a good flow. I couldn’t have climbed better.”
The women’s final takes place on Friday (7 p.m.) and the men’s on Saturday (4 p.m.). Of course, he is also aiming for an improvement in bouldering, said Schubert. Finally, as with the women, the top three secure a ticket for the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. “I want the Olympic spot, and I have to have a better bouldering loop. I have to concentrate fully on that, then it will be possible to get one of three spots.”
picturedesk.com/Keystone/ANTHONY ANEX In contrast to Schubert, Pilz set the course for the final of the top eight in the bouldering competition
Pilz “hasn’t quite reached its limit yet”
For Pilz, seventh place in bouldering and fifth place in lead resulted in 98.5 points after two balanced performances in both disciplines. The best of the day was Janja Garnbret from Slovenia (175 points) ahead of Ai Mori from Japan (136.9). “I really climbed pretty much to be on the safe side. It didn’t feel that easy and I haven’t quite reached my limit yet,” said Pilz. “The main thing is in the final, that’s the most important thing. On Friday it’s good if you don’t calculate too much and just concentrate on climbing.”