fashion show
To celebrate the tenth anniversary of its presence at Paris Fashion Week, the Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear collection presents a reimagined wedding party. In the pink-filled show space, pink satin sheets were laid out and presented by handcrafted shell candle holders. In this fashion show, the models performed the spring/summer 2023 women’s collection and selected men’s looks, accompanied by the live music performance of the pioneering music group LEYA & Eartheater, walking slowly.
inspiration
Romantic roses, bed sheets for wedding nights, bridal shoes in white satin and bows for Valentine’s Day are all upended in the Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear collection. Designers reinvigorated these quintessentially romantic elements, infusing a sense of casual lightness into festive outfits.
“I wanted to put on a fashion show to celebrate the tenth anniversary of Acne Studios’ presence at Paris Fashion Week, and when I look back on the most ceremonial moment in my life, I think of wedding celebrations. What I find fascinating about weddings is that It’s a fusion party that inspires a variety of aesthetic choices. The wedding has some lovely, earthy, sweet elements, but also a serious, tense, fragile atmosphere. I hope to reinvent the traditional wedding, tablecloths, chandeliers, Wedding elements such as bed sheets, the bride’s shoes, bows, and lovely flowers are all elements of this collection that are worthy of reference. I wanted to balance the original dress image with playful embellishments – a cutout suit showing its inner layer dress, or add a little flower to the skirt to make it look poetic.”
– Jonny Johansson, Creative Director, Acne Studios
color
An exploration focused on collision and contrast, sweet pink meets vibrant reds, chocolate browns and jet blacks in this collection.
tailor
Extra-long evening gowns showcase unconventional silhouette details that convey the glamour of the unfinished. Deconstructed bows that symbolize connection are wrapped around transparent fabrics, or swayed as ribbons on the side of tights, and like knotted sheets to form skirts and tops. The sheer tulle of the petticoat, traditionally romantic in its meaning, is exposed on the skin in this collection, while revealing the skin in its entirety, with knitted detailing at the edges. The collection continues the loose silhouette with a closure at the seams. Blazers, vests, and checked trousers are all based on the laid-back boy image.
fabric
This season also continues the drapey fabric elements, in which silk, tulle, delicate knits and poplin are endowed with ruffled details and wrapped around the body, allowing them to flow elegantly. Romantic lace, georgette, and crepe collide with stiff and functional materials, such as studded hand-painted leather and dyed cotton organza, to interpret inversion and subversion.
printing
Check fabrics in pink, brown, baby blue and cherry red add sweetness to the silhouette suit again, and play against the deliberately rough cuts, twisted roses and flocked tulle flowers. Tiny flowers and heart appliqués on sheer fabric make it more vivid. Two kittens by American artist Karen Kilimnik appear in pastel on the bottom of a leather bucket bag. Her work focuses on twisting traditional romantic elements and thinking about consumer culture, and is presented in the Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection.
accessories
Metal rivets appear repeatedly as an important element of accessories, giving a rigid texture to romantic draped garments. Accessories such as studded collars, bracelets, belts and more, inspired by heavy metal styles, complement the studded embellishments on bags and shoes. Romantic elements are also reinterpreted in this collection, including accessories covered with thorns and blooming roses, as well as antique chain necklaces and earrings decorated with cartoon bows. Inspired by crumbled tin foil, the silver spiral accessory has a hand-crafted simplicity, and is composed of shells and crystals for necklaces and earrings. 3D-printed sunglasses add a futuristic mood to the collection. The collection also includes earrings and necklaces in an exclusive collaboration with Ivorian designer Lafalaise Dion, made from her signature agate shell.
shoes
Satin bridal shoes featuring rosebuds at the toe are the star of the collection, which also includes painted cracked leather clogs with studs, high-heeled lace-up sandals in cracked leather, and satin and checked fabrics. Pleated sandals.
bag
The new minimalist Platt shoulder bag debuted on the runway (“Platt” is the Swedish word for “Flat”) in suede and cracked leather, with a side mirror and shoulder strap with studded chain. The collection also includes a delicate metal box bag with a bow motif and a generously sized studded micro bucket bag.
AS jacquard letters
Acne Studios debuts the “AS” jacquard monogram on two bags: the minimalist Platt bag and the paneled denim bag. After the Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show, the Platt bag will be available as a limited edition in selected stores around the world and on the official website. This is the first product from Acne Studios featuring the “AS” jacquard monogram, with more to come in Spring 2023.
Entering Paris Fashion Week 10 anniversary
The Fall/Winter 2013 collection was presented as the debut of Acne Studios Paris couture at the Palais Galliera (then known as the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris) in Paris. “The collaboration with the Musée de la Mode brought us to Paris unexpectedly, and that debut was very ambitious. My goal was to interpret the iconic French museum in a modern context. I invited my friend, the artist Katerina Jebb, scanned the museum’s antique collection, then I put the scans in print or embroidery on the fabrics I use, combined with contemporary patterns that we cut ourselves. In my mind, it’s Scandinavian The intersection of Navian and French cultures.”
– Jonny Johansson, Creative Director, Acne Studios
To celebrate the tenth anniversary of its presence at Paris Fashion Week, Acne Studios presents its Spring/Summer 2023 collection at the iconic Palais de Tokyo in Paris.
The Spring/Summer 2023 womenswear collection will be available in Acne Studios global stores and official website acnestudios.com in March 2023.