Reversing the order of the factors does not change the result, in a mathematical multiplication. It doesn’t even do it in a fashion presentation, but the inversion decided by Brunello Cucinelli to tell the women’s collection for spring-summer 2023 still has a strong meaning. The entrepreneur wanted the people who work in the women’s style office to speak first, to describe in detail the workmanship, materials, processes and inspiration of each garment and the entire collection. Cucinelli took the floor only later, to explain his cautious optimism about the future of Italy and the impressions gained from the first days of fashion week.
Innovative and surprising as has been the case for many seasons, the collection needed at least two neologisms to be explained: “Elegance is not questioned, but we are always looking for new ways of interpreting it – explained Giovanna Manfredi, Tiziana Pietrangeli and Camilla Cucinelli -. Even the words we choose always have a link with tradition, but they reinvent it: twinwear for example, it recalls the idea of coordinated sweaters, but for us it means combining, for example, Bermuda shorts in fine fabrics with light and partly unstructured jackets, adding if you want a waistcoat “.
Then there is the street couturewhich has nothing to do with streetwear, intended as shapeless rather than informal clothing, and which mainly uses artificial yarns and technical fabrics: “Our” high street fashion “is made up of garments to wear in every day, but created and built with details from haute couture ateliers », add Giovanna, Teresa and Camilla.
Innovations that the buyers, the people who buy for the retail channel (direct stores) and wholesale have liked: «We arrive at the fashion week with the sales campaign actually concluded – explained Brunello Cucinelli -. The results have been extraordinary and make us foresee a 2023 of great satisfaction ». In the first half of the year, revenues had grown by 32.3% to 415.2 million and all markets had recorded double-digit increases, starting with America (+ 52.7%), followed by Asia (+27.2 %), Europe (+ 20.7%) and Italy (+ 19.7%).
And it is precisely to the prospects of our country that Cucinelli dedicates the most heartfelt part of his speech: «Energy costs are a problem for everyone, citizens and businesses. However, there are differences in our supply chain. Those who are downstream, like us, suffer less from these increases than those who are upstream. I am having many meetings at the local level and with all the associations I belong to to solicit greater solidarity in the supply chain. Those who are lucky enough, like the big brands, to have higher and more stable margins, must meet the others. The strength of Made in Italy lies precisely in this supply chain ».