“DIA PRESS” STRUCTURA Autumn/Winter 2022

The popular details from the 80s and the minimalism of the 90s are decisively refined in the structural framework of STRUCTURA. The whole series is laid out in front of the eyes in low-saturation sand gray, thick jet black, and light khaki. The long trench coats and coats are straight and open, and the short jackets refer to the upper body proportions of traditional sportswear and the three-dimensional cut of the tooling. The independent temperament of trousers is full of individuality of independent expression under the tolerance of lines. Whether the human body is stretched or twisted, calm or restrained, the tone of the series is due to the sophisticated tailoring and control, full of calm, unhurried charm.

Tailoring, here has an absolute sense of narrative. The clear proportion of long and short lines, like the storyboard of a film, arranges the story direction and emotional transmission of the entire series of STRUCTURA in an orderly manner. Clothes, like people, also have spontaneous courage, and the wit of asking “impossible”. . STRUCTURA refers to Alvaro Siza’s human-centered design intrigue hidden in architecture, in the pockets, cuffs, necklines and other extremely subtle points, the opening is imaged as small irregular windows. The windows allow the passage of sunlight in the building, while the windows “generated” on the clothes are more private and tacit, and are the switching boundary between the wearer’s “self” and “foreign objects”. The open thread, rope, frizzy edge, or double-layer shirt neckline that flashes in between will weaken the closed attribute of “exit”, increase the communication between clothes and people, and constantly integrate and update our life experience. . This is a more interesting “obsession” based on the use of attributes and practicality.

Emotional neutrality is an elegant manner. Just as only the most determined can write the quietest and most independent thinking. STRUCTURA’s ability to balance from details to the overall extreme, reorganizes the three-dimensional dimension through plane graphics. The double-layer design of the waist of the trousers avoids the preconceived prejudice of the formal impression, and the trousers on one side are pressed to give the modern trousers a classical sense of hierarchy; the collocation and dispersal of the armbands can be done through a button. Change the style of the overall shape – when the cuff is fastened, the cuffs are filled with a double-layered arc-shaped three-dimensional sense, and the court temperament is mixed with graceful demeanor, which is full of drama; however, when the sleeves are unrolled, the sleeves swing freely with the limbs, and have a romantic style. ; The suit jacket uses the vest body as the front piece, which seems to cover the original appearance of the clothes with a “mask”; the waist loops with a few millimeters more have different wearing effects with or without belt decoration. – You can always believe in the power of a button. Like a journey through a maze, when we walk through it, the maze is also deforming and expanding, knocking down barriers and growing again.

There is no single true truth, only personal beliefs that are gradually confirmed in practice. STRUCTURA incorporates a little bit of humor that goes beyond the norm and a little bit of rhetorical probing into the increasingly minimalist appearance of clothing and clothing. Lifting weights lightly and realizing oneself in silence, a modern style worthy of speculation followed, and gradually surfaced.

Credit

Photographer: Jumbo Tsui Sui Jianbo

styling Team: Even Feng / Jia Liuyan

Hair: He Zhiguo

Make Up Makeup: Xue Bingbing

Production 制片：Mac Zhou @Shelter Production

Model: Yu Hang (Flint Culture) / Yang Hao (Oriental Bentley) / Jin Dachuan / Zhao Lei

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