Reprinted from: Ruili up
Original title: Fei Dong’s LV debut staged a mosaic, Liu Wen’s appearance at Ami, Paris Men’s Wear Week is full of things to watch!
During the 2024 Paris Spring/Summer Men’s Wear Week, Philippine director Pharrell Williams brought him his debut at Louis Vuitton. The guests present included Beyoncé and JAY Z, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Zendaya, Kim Kardashian, Naomi Campbell, Jared Leto, etc., the star-studded show is comparable to a fashion awards ceremony.
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Wang Jiaer, Bai Jingting, Su Yiming and Lin Junjie were also invited to appear in the show, wearing Louis Vuitton clothing, interpreting the charm of diverse men’s clothing.
In addition, Liu Wen made a surprise appearance at the Ami show and joined hands with Vittoria Ceretti to lead the closing show, wearing a neatly tailored suit and turning into a cool lady.
Let’s unlock more highlights of Paris Spring/Summer Men’s Wear Week~
/ Louis Vuitton /
The Louis Vuitton 2024 spring and summer men’s collection uses the sun as the design focus, implying opportunity, responsibility and improvement. In the first collection presented by menswear creative director Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, the sun is regarded as an important source of nourishment for all things. On the shimmering surfaces of ready-to-wear and accessories.
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The menswear show, held on the oldest bridge in Paris, the Pont Neuf, reflected the metaphorical link between Paris and Pharrell Williams’ home state of Virginia, evoking memories of his time at Princess Anne High School in Virginia Beach, as well as I think of the bits and pieces along the way: Marc Jacobs’ cooperation invitation when he was in Louis Vuitton ignited Pharrell Williams’ enthusiasm for exploring the fashion field, and he has also continuously improved himself during the years of acquaintance with Pietro Beccari.
This important theme is reflected in the collection’s styling elements and American-style baseball jackets, and is amplified in the French fashion made by Louis Vuitton workshops. The theme explores the sports wardrobe, offering a collection of sportswear and knitwear reinterpreted in pearl embroidery or Monogram motifs.
The initials of Louis Vuitton are transformed into a symbol of the new LVERS culture: a warm, healthy and friendly state of mind. This symbol appears in various patterns and decorations in this series, representing the diverse culture of the global community. From the important levels of craftsmanship and fabrics of the ready-to-wear and accessories, to the details of the buttons, rivets and zippers; every element that makes up the collection is infused with equal love. The LVERS logo also pays tribute to the slogan from Pharrell Williams’ hometown: “Virginia is for lovers.” Marque L in the brand archives. The Vuitton Déposée logo also reappears in this collection.
Damoflage spliced Louis Vuitton’s traditional Damier checkerboard pattern with camouflage textures to express the collision and fusion of two different styles, while paying tribute to Pharrell Williams’ old friend who settled in Paris. The pattern appears in three shades in accessories, workwear, indigo denim, pajama-inspired ready-to-wear, knitwear and fur intarsia, and suiting in jacquard. The outdoor vibe of camouflage textures echoes the colorful landscape patterns that appear in prints and jacquards on cape coats, tunic jackets, pajamas and shirts, and on coats and bags laser-cut to outline Louis Vuitton florals.
The colorful Damier pattern appears on suits, pajamas and denim suits. Damier leather grain coats and suits are printed with stitch 3D coloring. A houndstooth pattern pays homage to a traditional men’s wardrobe, while handmade Damier checkerboard embroidery of pearls adorns suiting, sportswear and workwear.
The tailored silhouette is outlined in modern suiting fabrics, and the loose design is decorated with pearls and crystals for a gentlemanly appeal. Clean suits, such as straight-leg or flared trousers, follow classic yet modern proportions, setting the tone for the collection’s tailored suits.
The collarless concept appears on stand-up collared coats or workwear, reminiscent of the jacket in a traditional Parisian woman’s wardrobe. Downsized caban coats were contrasted with slightly baggy, straight-leg trousers, while box-pleated shorts were worn with suiting.
Artworks created by American artist Henry Taylor depicting important people in his life in miniature embroidery, presented on tailored clothing, denim and accessories.
The Louis Vuitton Speedy handbag is reinterpreted, continuing the classic trapezoidal structure, with soft grained calfskin covering and high-quality sheepskin lining, full of life. The soft construction allows the bottom of the bag to be folded and hung freely for everyday use. The screen-printed Monogram pattern creates a hand-painted blurred artistic effect and is displayed in a variety of shades in the bag’s nine dimensions.
The Damoflage motif appears on canvas handbags, leather backpacks and Trainer cases. An enlarged version of the colorful Damier graphic is featured throughout the branding and twisted logotype. LV Allover bag in calfskin with embossed LV lettering in gold or silver. The Epi XL bag reinterprets the iconic textured calfskin in an enlarged form.
Alma bags feature embroidered artwork by Henry Taylor, which depicts the face of an important inventor, or a pixelated image of a new bridge created by an Atari game artist. The Tote bag in supple leather is embellished with appliquéd monograms that mimic the paper texture of the bag; the Black Tie bag is laid out in Damier checkerboard and embroidered with pearls; the Monogram boat bag pays tribute to the Bateaux Mouches cruise ship that sailed from Pont Neuf.
For the first time in the collection, there are bowling shoes in brushed calfskin, large Mary Janes in calfskin, and brightly colored LV embellished flat slippers featuring Damier motifs. The new LV Sport sneakers are made of Damier embossed leather or polished calfskin, with Damier checkerboard soles; the LV Trainer Maxi sneakers are made of polished crocodile leather, continuing the color palette of this series. Mirror calfskin loafers and oversized leather loafers are embellished with crystals, and LV Snowboard boots are made of Damoflage printed crocodile leather. There are also a variety of shoes with LV Chunky waffle embossed textured outsoles.
The Super Zoom sunglasses with hat have a striking shape resembling a camera lens; the goggle-shaped sunglasses are inlaid with pearls and have three-dimensional lenses surrounded by black metal wires to frame the face. Chic jewelry embellished with pearls, floral pendants and crystals exude gentlemanly style, echoing military buttons transformed into earrings. The rope necklace is inspired by the ropes that Louis Vuitton uses to fasten suitcases for easy transport, while the ball necklace and bracelet are made of sterling silver.
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/ DIOR /
As the fifth anniversary of Dior menswear artistic director Kim Jones creating menswear collections for Dior, the design of the Dior 2024 summer menswear collection combines the styles of the helm of the Dior brand from different eras for the first time, and pays sincere respect to them. At the same time, it incorporates my personal design language. Different inspiration elements are closely connected through various materials, crafts and classic Dior elements such as rattan pattern.
The exquisite silhouette of the Yves Saint Laurent era, the gorgeous embroidery of the Gianfranco Ferré era, the arc-shaped gemstone design of the Christian Dior era, and the texture patterns of the Marc Bohan era…The style of the era and the popular elements are ingeniously blended in the “Flower Man” ( Hommes Fleurs) in the inspiration garden built by the image of Hommes Fleurs resonates harmoniously, achieving a balance between tradition and innovation: Incorporating feminine elements into masculine images, shuttling from haute couture salons to street fashion, and embracing new wave culture with new styles and images.
In this fifth-anniversary collection show, these unique elements are harmoniously blended with the personal style of Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior Homme. At the same time, Mr. Yves Saint Laurent’s silhouette design has once again become the main inspiration for this series of works and has been reinterpreted. British classic suit tailoring techniques and fabrics meet Paris haute couture, swaying a chic demeanor that combines rigidity and softness.
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This season’s collections are sharp and stylish, full of modern interest, practical and comfortable to wear. Through the playful use of a large number of popular elements, the fusion of formal wear and leisure is realized, which combines luxury and practicality. Simple menswear items such as Harrington jackets, polo shirts, crewnecks, cardigans, etc., are interpreted through Dior’s classic style and craftsmanship, and given a new look with tweed, embroidery and cannage, turning them into extraordinary fashion masterpiece.
The world of menswear reinterprets Yves Saint Laurent suits once again, featuring shapes from the 1959 collection, including slits, pleats and necklines. These details are subtly combined with loose men’s suits, summer suits and oversized coats to achieve a natural look.
In addition, the shoe design draws inspiration from the LADY DIOR handbag in 1995, embellishing loafers and sandals with a new circular logo, and the thick sole design also presents a typical New Wave style. This season also offers a range of bags in different shapes, colors and textures: from bright neon saddle bags to cognac cannage satchels, from luxurious and luxurious to simple and elegant, there are also functional tweed rucksacks and leather Sandwich bag with rolled edges.
Talented milliner Stephen Jones teamed up with haute couture weaver Cecile Feilchenfeldt to create the New Wave-inspired beanie, also known as the Liberty Hat. The collection also surprises with Chinese velvet flowers, a delicate velvet flower that originated in China during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD). Chinese velvet flower craftsmen worked closely with Dior workshops to design a series of items such as cockades, renewing this traditional Chinese handicraft with great cultural value.
/ Loewe /
Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is an experiment in changing perspectives. Against the background of the huge fountain installation by artist Lynda Benglis, the show audience seemed to watch from a wide angle, or sometimes looked up at the runway, admiring the wonders brought about by the change of perspective. This is the alluring silhouette brought by the new 2024 spring and summer menswear series: slender legs, high waistline, and tight upper body line.
The elongated design, changeable techniques and re-imagining of materials make what you see surpass what you see, and boldly release the subtleties. Blazers, coats, striped shirts, knitted polos, two-piece cardigans, checkered knits, jeans and chinos run through the collection. Looking at the deliberate plain appearance, you can immediately realize the surge of wonders under the appearance. Crystal embellishments cover the surface of the garment like a mesh, displacing the yarn and creating stripes. Postural tailoring turns the body into a sort of architectural structure. The shoes are integrated into the trousers, and the whole outfit rises like a tall building.
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Just like LOEWE’s previous designs, the unexpected design makes everything completely different. The top is like a magnified sample book, even including the pins on the sample book. Accessories became part of the clothes: crystal hummingbirds appeared on broken brocade tops; sunglasses frames were also covered with crystal embellishments.
The color palette is rational, including a range of pastel shades, as well as true blue, black and khaki.
Round-toed Chelsea boots and sandals, ballerinas, and oversized bags like the suede Pebble bucket bag and Puzzle Fold bag add further elements to the play of proportions.
/ ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATED MAN /
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE 2024 SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION was released at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, with the theme of “Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter (universal, original, now and hereafter)”, starting from the garment pleating process, starting from the original design And the reflection of production, dedicated to exploring the process of refining the essence of the brand. The new design has clean outlines and rich colors. With the brand’s originality and techniques such as pleats, this series returns to the essence of design, bringing clothes designed for everyday life, and conveying the brand philosophy of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE.
The series kicks off with a long roll of crumpled paper being rolled out on the floor of the museum’s gallery space. Unfolding the mystery of the crepe paper, this season’s garments are presented in a flat perspective, and the design team dresses the models on stage. Incorporate part of the garment draping process into the runway scene and experience the endless possibilities.
MONTHLY COLORS series, interpreting new colors launched every month. This season’s colors blend and balance the soft and rich colors of nature, inspired by shades drawn from dyed natural materials.
The RECTANGLE collection, which presents a rectangular structure when laid flat, forms an asymmetrical silhouette when worn, with its edges hanging naturally along the body.
PICTURESQUE is a series of prints of natural landscapes, which are depicted with simple triangle and circle designs: mountains, wind and earth. Layers of translucent paint reveal the depth of color, which is expressed through bold brushstrokes.
HORIZON is a new line of horizontally pleated garments. The idea of changing the direction of the pleats, although it seems simple, is made possible by the brand’s years of technical research experience. As the wearer moves, the garment bobs up and down, making its silhouette even lighter.
The WING COAT series is inspired by the wings of airplanes and birds. The back slit acts like wings and spreads in the wind, lending movement to the silhouette. The natural texture of the lightweight stretch fabric makes it breathable and comfortable.
The PL RAMIE SHIRT series is characterized by a cape design on the shoulders, and the smooth texture of the elastic fabric forms a soft drape. It is available in 3 styles and lengths.
The EDGE ENSEMBLE & EDGE COAT LIGHT collection features wide accordion pleats. The fabric of the EDGE ENSEMBLE series is recycled polyester fiber with a soft sheen and a dry touch, giving it a light feeling for formal wear. The EDGE COAT series has two new styles, the windbreaker and the hooded jacket.
The LIKE LOAFERS series is inspired by formal wear and is a new style of loafers. Made of stretchy material for easy donning. Available in 3 colours: Beige, Charcoal and Black.
/ AMI /
AMI released the brand’s 2024 spring and summer men’s and women’s clothing series at the Paris Tennis Club. Famous for its concrete architecture, the Paris Tennis Club was a favorite venue for fashion shows in the 1990s. The stage design echoes the minimalist spirit of the fashion show, and also contributes to the atmosphere and emotional tone of the season.
The AMI model lineup follows the pattern of a generational mix of models for previous fashion shows. Well-known models such as Vittoria Ceretti, Akon Changkou, Liu Wen, Jill Kortleve, Julia Nobis, Saskia de Brauw, Fernando Cabral, Taemin Park, Mika Schneider and América González appeared on the same stage with rising stars to jointly interpret the AMI 2024 spring and summer series.
This season, the designer draws inspiration from the extraordinary minimalist style of the 1990s, reinterprets the basic elements of the brand, and designs clothing works corresponding to the times in constant contact with reality.
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The shoulders of the clothing are cut sharply and clearly, and the overall silhouette is elegant and smooth, which naturally fits the curves and movements of the body. In this season, neutral styles have become a major focus. On the basis of mature men’s wear design, this season’s women’s wear design also shines. Soft, natural colors contrast with bright shades. Patterns, such as AMI’s classic black and white stripes, are eye-catching, while luxurious fabrics accentuate the lightness of the collection. The tailoring is more smooth and natural, and the three-dimensional effect is diluted, and the casual items are also specially made of commonly used fabrics for custom clothing.
The new minimalist fashion bag further interprets the calm and simple style of this season. The new AMI iconic bag Paris-Paris, and its soft and practical version Paname-Paname bag, classic bourgeois style interprets Parisian elegance. New this season is the Voulez-Vous bag in pillow-shaped lambskin with a leather-wrapped chain. The brand’s first iconic bag, the Déjà-Vu, is also available in a new version with AMI’s signature stripes. There is also a soft and delicate shopping tote bag Grocery Bag, which can be carried by hand or shoulder.
AMI’s iconic black and white stripes can be seen everywhere in other accessories collections, such as on the striking cylindrical heel of women’s shoes, or in jewelry, the stripe element has also become a recurring creative theme, adorning the different versions of several accessories, Make a statement; another signature element is the Ami de Coeur buckle, which adorns earrings, bracelets and necklaces. AMI also launched a series of sunglasses for the first time this season, interpreting the spirit of minimalism with unisex sunglasses decorated with fashionable patterns, and interpreting spring and summer colors.
Image source: provided by the brand