Fruit acid peels assessed as unsafe
They are supposed to improve the appearance of the skin, make it smoother and ensure that dead skin cells are shed and cell renewal is promoted: fruit acid peelings, for example with glycolic or citric acid.
What to think of them? The Chemical and veterinary investigation office in Karlsruhe advises caution. It examined 34 exfoliants. Of the eight products with fruit acids, the agency judged six to be unsafe. Most of these came from online trading.
High acid levels can severely damage the skin
The peelings criticized had one thing in common: high acidity of 30 to even 80 percent. Such products can irritate the skin if left on for too long. If used improperly, chemical burns with scarring and pigment disorders can even occur.
Tipp: The skin is generally more sensitive to UV rays after using fruit acids. It is therefore important to protect them from the sun after a fruit acid peeling. Our tests of sunscreen and day creams with UV protection help to find suitable products.
Important warnings were missing
Because of the risks, warnings and instructions for use on the products are important. The investigation office missed such indications on the fruit acid peels that were judged to be unsafe – that was the main reason for the complaint.
It was particularly problematic when this note was missing: “only for commercial use”. Without this, it can be assumed that not only experts, but also lay people use the peelings.
Tipp: Have peelings with a high acid content only used in specialist dermatological practices or by medical beauticians. After that, a neutralizing solution and a UV blocker should be used.
Three types of peelings: with acids, particles or enzymes
- Fruchtsäurepeelings are chemical peels. They contain natural acids that are also found in fruit and vegetables. These substances, also known as alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA), include glycolic, lactic, salicylic and citric acids. They break down connections between dead skin cells and promote their shedding. Its use in cosmetics is largely unregulated in the EU Cosmetics Directive – with one exception: the concentration of salicylic acid in peelings must not exceed two percent in the ready-to-use preparation.
- Mechanical peels are rubbed in with light pressure. The fine abrasive particles contained rub away dead skin cells and stimulate blood circulation in the skin. As a rule, cosmetics suppliers no longer use microplastics for this, but rather sugar, mineral particles such as sea salt or vegetable particles such as jojoba wax pearls.
- Enzympeelings also belong to the chemical peels. They contain enzymes that soften the protein building blocks between the skin cells so that they loosen. This peeling variant is considered gentle and should also be suitable for sensitive skin.
Mechanical peels are safe
What the examination of peelings at the Karlsruhe office also revealed: All 26 mechanical peelings, which rub off old skin cells with fine particles, were safe. However, self-application is not suitable for everyone, for example not for people with active acne: Inflammation could worsen as a result.
Exfoliate no more than once or twice a week
In general, nobody should overdo it with peeling. Done too often it can irritate the skin. Depending on skin type and skin condition, once or twice a week is sufficient in addition to daily cleansing. It is best to use the products in the evening: massage in gently and do not rub heavily. After that, the skin can absorb caring active ingredients particularly well.
Tipp: Anyone who is not afraid of aesthetic procedures will find information on injections with hyaluronic acid or Botox.