;Resize=(1200,627)&impolicy=perceptual&quality=mediumHigh&hash=ca9ebebe9099bab41520bd35d77c54de84c61919318ea53d85aafcaf73b8f6c3 "Harmful ingredients for humans and nature? Checking sunscreen myths")
The heat has reached Germany. With the summer temperatures, applying sunscreen is important. But there are a few myths surrounding the products. We explain what they do to our skin, how to recognize good creams and what mistakes you should avoid when using them.
How do sunscreens work on our skin?
Sunscreens work with chemical and mineral filter substances. They keep the UV rays of the sun away from the skin. Chemical sun protection filters work with organic molecules such as octinoxate, a derivative of cinnamic acid.
These absorb the sun’s rays, absorbing them and releasing them in the form of heat. Mineral or physical sunscreens use white pigments to reflect sunlight. They basically let it ricochet off the skin. These pigments include, for example, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Many sunscreens often use both filters: on the one hand to prevent whitening on the skin. On the other hand, physical agents do not absorb all harmful rays, and chemical agents can also reflect rays.
Controversial process: Like creams be made more transparent
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are so-called broad spectrum UV filters. Both protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. They are among the most commonly used UV filters and rarely cause allergic reactions. However, titanium dioxide does not cover the entire UV-A spectrum.
Since both filters would make the skin white as chalk, manufacturers cut the active ingredients into microscopically small nanoparticles. This makes the cream more transparent – a process that is often disputed. Therefore, transparent or almost transparent creams always contain nanoparticles.
After all, titanium dioxide nanoparticles can sometimes even penetrate into the dermis, the layer under the epidermis of the skin. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles can also be carcinogenic through inhalation, particularly through sprays and powders. Also, both – in normal and nano form – form free radicals when exposed to sunlight. These can cause cell and DNA damage.
And that’s especially true in skin that doesn’t have enough antioxidants to counteract it. Some manufacturers therefore use already coated zinc oxide and titanium particles. You note this on the packaging.
The biggest mistakes when using sunscreen
Even those who use the highest available LFS must know that all products do not offer 100 percent protection. Not just because the filters can’t do it. Also because no one can cream themselves perfectly.
In addition, most people apply too little: the recommended amount is one to two tablespoons for children, about three to four tablespoons for adults. That’s about 40 ml for the whole body! A 200 ml bottle is sufficient for a maximum of five days of sunbathing.
In addition, the effectiveness of sunscreen is limited. Therefore, protection should be renewed every two hours. Earlier even in people who exercise and sweat. Part of the protection may be lost when bathing. Therefore, according to the Europe-wide regulation, creams that are considered “waterproof” must still have at least half of the original SPF after two contact with water of 20 minutes each. If they are marked as “extra waterproof”, you can enjoy the water for twice as long.
Not only UVB and UVA rays, but also infrared light and even visible light can cause skin damage. Conventional sunscreen UV filters do not offer effective protection against this.
Sunscreens: Danger to the environment?
Sunscreen can pollute and damage all bodies of water and especially coral reefs. Due to the strong UV exposure in and on the water, divers, snorkelers, swimmers, etc. use a lot of sunscreen. It remains in the water in large quantities.
Most sunscreen products contain questionable substances. These include parabens (antibacterial preservatives), cinnamates (perfuming UV absorbers), camphor derivatives (camphor is a UV filter and absorber), benzophenones (decomposition products of the UV filter octocrylene), the UV filters zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and especially oxybenzone .
All substances contribute to the so-called “coral bleaching”, the fading of corals and subsequent death. Since corals are vital to survival in the delicate ecosystem of reefs, dying off inevitably leads to the death of entire reefs.
Sunscreens: Danger to humans?
Ingredients that are harmful to the environment are also not good for the skin. Especially those of sensitive small children and allergy sufferers. For example, parabens, antibacterial preservatives that are often used in cosmetics, interact with UV radiation to prematurely age the skin.
Sometimes so strong that wrinkles and age spots can appear prematurely. In addition, parabens are suspected of having a tumor-promoting effect and being able to trigger allergies.
Consumers whose skin exhibits hypersensitivity reactions to the cream should read the ingredient list of the cream used. Some manufacturers use UV filters, which are known to often cause allergies. However, since most sun protection products contain several UV filters, the search for the allergy trigger is difficult. In order to find a suitable product, you often have to try several. The possible absorption of UV filters through the skin into the body is lower in healthy, resistant skin than in the vulnerable skin of children or people affected by skin diseases such as eczema or rosacea.
Whether UV filters in the creams have endocrine-damaging properties or not has not been tested on humans, but (only) in the laboratory. So if you apply sunscreen frequently and with enough sunscreen, you should use products with harmless filters.
The rather harmless UV filters used in Europe include Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, Tinosorb A2B, Uvinul A Plus, Octyltriazon-Octisalate, Ensulizol, Mexoryl SX or Mexoryl XL. More dubious UV filters that should not necessarily be used on a daily basis include avobenzone, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, polysilicone-15, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (nano).
How to recognize good creams
First of all, for anyone who needs to be in the sun, the basic principle applies: it is always better to use an inferior product than not at all. If you have the choice, you can use good creams that don’t put too much strain on your skin’s health or the environment.
In addition, good creams use a sensible combination of reflective and absorbing, photostable filters to effectively block UV rays. They also use DNA protective substances against early skin aging and for skin and cell protection. They supply the skin with care substances and activate its self-healing process. Such DNA protective substances are, for example, candle tree extract, vitamins and other care substances.
Insecure consumers can also rely on the relevant test judgments such as Stiftung Warentest or Ökotest and their classifications.
That means the sun protection factor
The sun protection factor (SPF), abroad SPF (Sun Protection Factor) indicates how well a product protects. The higher the number, the less radiation it lets through. The highest sun protection factor in Germany is given as 50+. Manufacturers achieve a maximum LFS of 60. Even with this, almost two percent of the radiation still penetrates to the skin.
After all, with sun protection with SPF 15, almost seven percent of the UV rays reach the skin, with an LVS 30 it is still over three percent.
When is the right time to apply sunscreen?
The EU recommends applying sunscreen about 20 to 30 minutes before sunbathing. However, this is only partially related to the UV protection effect, as sunscreen with reflective filters protects against UV radiation immediately after application. Absorbing UV filters need a certain amount of time to develop their full effectiveness.
In addition, sunscreen should be applied to dry skin as sweaty skin has enlarged pores. However, many of the sun creams on the market can clog the pores and lead to skin irritation. Due to a corresponding guideline, you will find the instruction to apply sunscreen 20 to 30 minutes before sunbathing on almost all sun protection products today.
How long you can use sunscreen
Today, creams, sprays and lotions can be kept unopened for more than 30 months. And that too without preservatives. The expiry date is usually on the packaging. However, once opened, they should be used within one season.
Do sunscreens really prevent vitamin D production?
Today, people quickly reach the dose limits of UV light exposure and can age faster as a result. This is mostly due to the fact that we do not coordinate our natural protection (including that of skin adaptation thanks to melanin) with the rising position of the sun.
Our diet with fewer phytonutrients (various, bioactive substances from the plant world) also plays a role: these ensure that our skin cells are well protected from damage caused by UV light. More industrial food is eaten and most of the day is spent indoors. Vitamin D plays a crucial role in this. It controls numerous bodily functions via the sun, lets over 2000 genes work in the cells and ensures our health. If sunscreen with ever higher SPF is applied, the stimulating wavelength for the body’s own vitamin D production is filtered out. Even an LFS of 8 already inhibits almost all production.
Ensuring your skin is getting enough antioxidants and eating plenty of fruits and vegetables reduces the likelihood of free radicals causing skin damage. This can also be achieved by using creams with antioxidants and avoiding the midday hours between 12 p.m. and 3 p.m. in the sun. Textile sun protection, hats and sunglasses, as well as fresh air and light every day help the skin.
From World of Wonders Editors