The witches dance in Benevento – Natalino Russo

3 pm: scent of spices.
The first stop is right in front of the station: it is the Spazio Strega, where the story of the company and the literary prize is told. Already at the entrance you are enveloped by the smell of over seventy herbs and spices used for the production of the yellow liqueur. Beautiful advertising posters designed in the early twentieth century by Marcello Dudovich. There is also a section dedicated to the countless attempts at imitation, with bottles that recall the brand in shape or color. We are in the modern part of the city and a walk along Viale Principe di Napoli leads to the historic center, across the river Calore. But before entering the alleys, you can take a short detour to see the Leproso bridge: cross the river Sabato just upstream from the confluence with the Calore. The evident Roman structure can be recognized in the base.

5 pm: the rediscovered cathedral.
The Roman past of Benevento is also evident by observing the facade of the cathedral, Santa Maria d’Episcopio, rich in bas-reliefs and other re-used elements. The structure bears the signs of the bombing of 1943: the few parts that remained standing were subsequently incorporated into a massive reconstruction. The bronze interior door, called Janua Major, is remarkable. It probably dates back to before the twelfth century and is a masterpiece of Romanesque art. But the most fascinating part of the church is discovered by descending into the crypt, where an underground path leads to the excavations of the Roman ruins.

6 pm: aperitif under the arch.
Shops and some renowned bars are concentrated along Corso Garibaldi. Walking along it, on the right there is a neo-Egyptian obelisk from the 1st century AD, which is a first taste of what will later be seen in the archaeological museum. Immediately beyond, the Strega coffee, distinguished by the classic brand, is a great place for an aperitif. At the end of via Traiano stands the majestic Arch of Trajan, which is the best preserved Roman honorary arch in the world. It was built at the beginning of the 2nd century AD and is practically intact. In the Lombard period it was called Porta Aurea because, incorporated into the walls, it became one of the city gates. In summer, the space around the monument is full of tables and you can dine while enjoying the cool of the evening. In winter you can sit in the Traiano restaurant, with atmosphere and local dishes. Or you can go into the alleys of the historic center and reach the small osteria Sapori di corte, where Lorenzo Tufo prepares traditional dishes and specializes in the typical cod of the Campania hinterland. It also has a good selection of Campania wines.

9 am: a link with Istanbul.
In the early morning, with the sun in favor, it is worth looking out from the Rocca dei rectors, the ancient castle of the city. Going up to the first floor, and asking for permission, you are allowed to go up a spiral staircase that leads to the terrace. The view of the city with the backdrop of the Taburno and Matese mountains in the distance is enchanting. In the foreground are the historic buildings of the center, including the church of Hagia Sophia with its bell tower, whose central plan structure is inspired by that of Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, today’s Istanbul. Together with the magnificent cloister, a Unesco heritage, this church of Benevento testifies to the imprint left by five centuries of Lombard dominion.

10.30: Egypt in Campania.
Adjacent to the church, the Sannio museum is a real treasure, as it collects artifacts ranging from prehistoric times to the Italic and Roman periods. Also not to be missed is the Egyptian section, which is located in the premises of the nearby Arcos museum. Here are exhibited finds that come from a temple dedicated to Isis built in this area by the emperor Domitian at the end of the 1st century AD. Thus it turns out that Benevento had the only pharaonic temple in Europe and is among the cities with the highest concentration of Egyptian finds in the whole West.

1 pm: archaeological lunch break.
After having eaten something in one of the premises of the course, it is time to go and discover the Roman theater. He can be reached by returning to the cathedral and from here along via Carlo Torre, which runs along an area of ​​archaeological excavations and passes under the so-called Arco del Sacramento. Today devoid of the original marble coverings, the arch was part of the forum, not far from the theater. This is located a little further on, is well preserved and can be visited almost always in solitude, immersed in silence. Walking along via Port’Arsa you will soon reach the only surviving gate of the ancient city walls, not to mention the arch of Trajan.

6 pm: local tradition.
Saturday afternoon is the time to go around the shops of Corso Garibaldi, and then take a break at number 200 where the Caffè del Corso is located. After an aperitif we indulge in some good cuisine at Cocotte, a Mediterranean tavern that inherits the culinary knowledge of a historic trattoria called Nunzia, remembered by everyone in the city. The wine list reflects the excellent quality of the dishes, which draw on local tradition but are reworked with creativity. And if you still want to hang out, you can dive into the Benevento nightlife, which animates the alleys of the center until late.

9 am: contemporary art.
It is advisable to go early to the Hortus Conclusus, a unique garden-installation curated by Mimmo Paladino, a leading exponent of the Italian trans-avant-garde. In the park, which is free to enter, contemporary art constructs a narration of the historical and social elements of the city and of the Sannio, of which the artist is a native. Speaking of art, a nice discovery is also the Swing Gallery, a space located inside the Collenea Isernia Palace, on Corso Garibaldi, which is open on weekends by reservation. Here the gallery owner Angela Da Silva hosts artists from all over the world and active in the field of contemporary collectible design. A courageous project carried out by a woman who has chosen to stay in her city, betting on the revival of that internal Italy that is so much talked about and that has been forgotten by politics for too long. In Benevento the witches still dance.