An increasingly felt problem, so much so that on May 25th, the international day of skin spots is dedicated to him. The general data show that the problem affects one in three women, males are less affected, across the board, of any age and ethnicity. The demand to eliminate spots on the face, neck, décolleté and back of the hands is constantly growing and there are more and more treatments to eliminate them and prevent their formation. However, it should be noted that not all spots are the same, the field of hyperpigmentation is vast and complex.
«Hyperchromic spots, more commonly hyperpigmentation, are characterized by an enormous presence of melanin in a small area of skin», explains Maria Gabriella Di Russo, aesthetic doctor in Milan and Formia and member of the Agorà Milano scientific committee. “They may be due to various factors: age, the so-called age spots, mainly located on the back of the hands and face; hormonal changes, as in the case of the use of oral contraceptives, hormone replacement therapy in menopause and finally during pregnancy with chloasma gravidarum. In the latter case, the spots are mainly located on the face and usually disappear after childbirth. Another cause is intense and intermittent sun exposure without adequate sun protection ».
The most effective treatments
Once the type of stain has been identified, there are several treatments. However, the evaluation must always be made by the doctor who will choose the most suitable treatment based on the extent of the stain, the pigmentation and the state of dehydration of the skin. «One of the most innovative treatments is the Reverse Peel, or reverse peeling, indicated for hyperpigmentation and melasma – continues the specialist -. It is a progressive stain reconditioning treatment that acts in the opposite way to traditional methods. Treats accumulations of melanic pigment by removing them at the dermal level. The treatment consists of 3 phases in which the doctor applies the products in sequence. The PRX T33 method, on the other hand, was born as a chemical biostimulation, in reality it works as a medium-depth peeling with the advantage of not provoking the exfoliation of the epidermis. It is a gel based on 33% trichloracetic acid, buffered with hydrogen peroxide and 5% kojic acid. Kojic acid treats hyperpigmentation related to photoaging. For a stable result, however, it is necessary to resort to several sessions. For laser therapy, the Q-Switched is recommended, a laser with a targeted action that affects only the melanin pigment. It is a medical-surgical treatment that produces a light with a wavelength of 532 nm in the form of pulses of high energy and very short duration ».
Dermamelan, a super effective peeling
A consolidated treatment is Dermamelan, the gold standard for melasma and skin spots which, however, has evolved over time, improving its performance. “It is an advanced depigmentation system that acts at various levels by implementing a process of correction, intracellular and intercellular regulation that allows obtaining results both for the removal of spots and for the prevention of their reappearance” explains Antonino Pulvirenti, specialist in Geriatrics and Gerontology, expert in Antiaging Medicine of the Pulvirenti Clinic in Giarre. «The protocol takes place in two phases: the first performed by the specialist, the second, maintenance, performed by the patient at home. In the office, a mustard-colored mask is applied, which works by lightening and eliminating skin spots by inhibiting the melanogenesis process. The specialist will decide the shutter speed which can vary from 3 to 5 hours. After removing the mask, the lightening process continues at home using the Dermamelan Treatment cream. This phase is very important and home treatment must be followed scrupulously for a few months. The warnings to follow in this period are essentially: the use of a specific cream (Melan recovery) is the use of a very high protection sunscreen spf 130 ».
Home solutions
As in all fields, prevention plays a fundamental role. It is important to prevent the formation of brown spots with ad hoc cosmetics. Modern cosmetics offers very valid depigmenting cosmetics, but it must be said that if the blemish is deep you must contact the specialist. Among the novelties we point out: the Korff protocol with a Depigmenting AA-PE serum, to which is added the cream milk, the regenerating tonic and a micropeeling mask. Also in the field of masks, Sisley has just launched the Masque Exfoliant Enzymatique, which in just one minute transforms the quality of the skin, giving it a new radiance. Lierac, on the other hand, offers Lumilogie Double Concentrate Day Night which acts on 3 types of stains: in the process of forming, visible and widespread. Among the serums: Dark-Spot Reducing Serum by Eterea Cosmetics Natural with arbutin, vitamin C and azelaic acid for an intense lightening action and Collistar Pure Active, Anti Spot Concentrate with glycolic acid and niacinamide to treat skin spots locally. On the creme side, Dermophisiologique proposes D white with arbutin and azelaic acid for a lightening action, while Freshly Cosmetics has just launched Lotus Radiance Dark Sport Treatment which reduces facial blemishes with 99% natural ingredients, including Cystoseira seaweed. .